Devil's Deed 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Scott Baxter et al. (early 70's) |
| Season: | Spring thru Fall |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jul 17, 2006 |
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Youngharz entering the fist crack directly above t...
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Devil's Deed is one of the best 5.9's at The Overlook. Challenging and classic! Route starts when you peel off from Angel's Delight about 15 feet up at a #2 Camalot/hand crack. Traverse right on good holds along small ledges, then up and head for the left thin crack above. Protection is tricky, but possible here in a small slot below the corner. An awkward move gets you face-to-face with the crack. You can get a cam in here if you have a tiny one (00 TCU size). You have to make a couple dicey moves to get up high enough to get your tips into the crack. Above this, out right, you move into a wide hands crack (#3 Camalot) to a small stance. A finger crack heads out right and up (second crux here) and then to the rim. Excellent route!!!
Location Located just right of Angel's Delight. Start on that route, go 15 feet up and then break right to the next corner over.
Protection Nuts, cams from tiny (00 TCU) up to #3 Camalot.
Brian scoping out a move into the crack.
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Devil's Deed
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By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007
| First ascent: Scott Baxter et al. (early 70's) |
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
| A #0 tcu works fine instead of a #00, a small stopper is also easily placed below the tips crack.
This is a fabulous route with three distinct cruxes. Minus one star only for the scary loose block that tempts you to stem over to it as you step right into the steep big hands crack. (The one the guy in the picture is stemming on! I wanted to do that but decided that making the move more difficult was preferable to possibly killing my belayer. :) |
By Mark Mueller
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.9
| The block is now gone. I found only one crux below the #3 placement (which I walked up) and it was mainly due to the wasps landing on my hands while trying to rest. Great climb, this, Amateur Hour and Answered Prayers are the "must do 5.9s" at The Look. |
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