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The Outrage Wall
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Devil's Cabaña Boy 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Ned Harris -
Page Views: 2,353
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 1, 2008

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On-sighting the amazing 2nd pitch of "Devil's...

Description 

This is a fantastic route - the second pitch of which climbs a wild, steep tufa system (the "tufa chandelier") and the third pitch joins with Time for Livin' for that route's crux. Although this could be viewed as an easier version of Time for Livin', the second pitch is worthy in its own right. The given ratings - and pitch count for that matter - in the current guidebooks are all a bit wonky so hopefully this will clarify:

P1 (5.11d): 11 bolts. The big black tufa and jugs lead to a thin face.

P2 (5.12b): 11 bolts. A hard move off the belay (or sneak left) to a powerful crux on edges, then follow fantastic tufas up before underclinging right.

P3 (5.12d): 15 bolts. Climb up off the belay to join with Time for Livin', then interesting climbing interspersed with rests to a final blind crux up and right over a bulge to the anchor.

P6 (5.12b): 9 bolts. Two tough sections separated by a no-hands rest; the second section involves a throw to a hidden pocket. A long runout through a cactus jungle and loose block maze leads to the top of the wall.

Descent: Rap straight down with a single 80m rope - otherwise use two ropes.

Rating this route is difficult. There are Potrero Chico grades and then there are grades in the rest of the world. Perhaps the overall effort required to send this baby is 5.13- (the given rating) but there are no moves on the route that would merit the 13 rating on their own. That said, several sections would be extremely hard to onsight (especially considering the lack of traffic this route receives).

Location 

Begin at the left edge of the Outrage Wall in red dirt just before the mine. Start by climbing up the right side of the dark black tufa system that reaches to the ground just below a small palm a little ways up the wall. There are actually two parallel bolt lines here and either one works.

Protection 

15-16 draws. An 80m rope or two ropes. A belay seat.


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By CURT LOVE
Feb 1, 2008

2nd pitch is one of the best pitches I have ever climbed.
A little soft but really sick climbing.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 24, 2009

I agree with the above poster. Second pitch is stunning, one of the best sport routes I've ever done. Guidebook lists it at 12d which seemed a little generous. Probably normal Potrero 12c.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 15, 2010

As mentioned above the second pitch is amazing. Get on it if you climb at the grade. From the belay move right making some powerful moves pulling the small roof. Above this the line serpentines on easier climbing before the crux on powerful crimps and slopers. Once you reach the tufa system, the main difficulties are over and you can enjoy the fantastic tufa climbing up the slightly overhung wall. At the next roof traverse right on powerful moves underclinging the tufa chandeliers. Finally pull a final hard move in the right facing dihedral section leading to the belay. Amazing Pitch! It is long around a 100ft so best to use a 70m, I believe the pitch had around 10 or 11 bolts. I'd guess the grade to be at 12c as well.

I didn't get on it but the third pitch is rated 12c and looks good but I've heard it could use some cleaning and isn't as classic as the second pitch.
By WMcD
Feb 17, 2010

Pitch 1 might be the best pitch of 5.11 climbing in the Potrero.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Dec 24, 2014
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because it's probably one of the best pitches in the potrero.
By BrianWS
Jan 19, 2015

P1 is super quality, technical tufa and slab climbing.

P2 is wild. Hard moves down low (12a/b) and relatively chill climbing through the amazing tufas. One more hard move through an odd flake feature gets you to the anchors.

The quality of this route may be very weather dependent. One of the main tufas was covered in moss and running water, adding considerably to the spice factor. Also, the bolts are in strange condition. Many look fairly rusted, and others have had layers of mineral growing over them -- they look like they've been "melted" into the wall itself and are difficult to assess.

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