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Devil's Advocate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips, NateWilliams, Tyler Maconville
Page Views: 1,736
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Molly H climbing because she can't ski Alta yet
  • Don't park on the dirt road on weekdays; parking is allowed only on weekends.
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    Fun .10a warmup.


    Location 

    Right at the top of the trail to the Far East Hellgate is a pine tree and an arete/flake with bolts on its left. This is the route.


    Protection 

    9 bolts, chains.



    Photos of Devil's Advocate Slideshow Add Photo
    Austin Black leading this great climb
    Austin Black leading this great climb
    Another shot of the upper portion of the lead on Devil's Advocate
    Another shot of the upper portion of the lead on D...
    Ruth on Devils Advocate
    Ruth on Devils Advocate
    Devil's Advocate
    BETA PHOTO: Devil's Advocate
    A lead on Devil's Advocate
    A lead on Devil's Advocate
    Fun 5.10
    Fun 5.10
    Climbing.
    Climbing.
    Comments on Devil's Advocate Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2013
    By JimG
    Sep 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    This has cleaned up to be a very good route. Fun face climbing on good, featured rock. If you are looking for an easier 10a route up there I would recommend this. Great little belay spot right next to that big pine tree as an added bonus; take some beers, kick back and enjoy the Alta life.

    By Alan Avedovech
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 29, 2010

    Awesome climb, awesome exposure!

    By Matty Coles
    From: Salt Lake City
    Sep 6, 2010

    Climbed twice today. Solid, fun climb. Can even belay in the shade from the tree until sun moves west.

    Kallan's first 5.10
    Kallan's first 5.10

    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 19, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    five.eight-

    By user id
    Jul 20, 2011

    5.8 ?

    I am so impressed by you,
    so is everyone else on here!

    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    May 23, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    Best moderate climb at Hellgate! Awesome aesthetic line up an arete/pillar... made all the better for it being consistent and offers great views. Gave it 4 stars for the area.

    Awesome place to take someone to get their first 9+/10a lead.

    By tenesmus
    Jul 6, 2012

    I was climbing this the other day and a guy told me to do the 2-bolt extension. So I was like, " Cool, Tyler must have added a few extra feet of climbing." But then I saw the bolts right next to the perfect handcrack and was pretty sure he wouldn't do that. I think the guy said his name was Greg and had the impression it was 'The Greg' who did all the Hellgate stuff and was kind of psyched to meet him. But my kids were kind of freaked out by all the cussing so we laid low. And then I thought, "Nah, that can't be that Greg because he got super upset when Sanderson extended one of his lines. He'd never do something like that because he'd know that would be uncool to Tyler. Maybe he worked it out with him and I need to STFU? Probably.

    By zoso
    Jul 6, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    Ahhhhh. Late night ramblings.

    By D. Durrant
    Sep 21, 2012

    Good route, the first pitch is soft even for the grades at the Hellgate. I think if the extension is added it brings the grade a little closer to .10a. Quality rock, fun jams at the top, a must do if you are at the wall regardless of who thinks what about the grade.

    By Jason Shumaker
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 18, 2013

    Clay: one star?

    I liked this route; fun!

    By tenesmus
    Jul 19, 2013

    Only because of the bolted crack without asking the FA's permission from someone who complained ad nausea about an extension to one of his routes.

    By benjaminleaton
    From: Sandy, UT
    Jul 22, 2013

    A fun gem for the area. A cool feature on the wall like that should always have a route on it. I'm curious why it doesn't go all the way up?