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Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 39.95412, -105.28644
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Page Views: 17,841 total · 83/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Devil's advocate is a small flatiron North of the Maiden and Fatiron, and South of the Shanahan crags. It sits just below the north end of the base of the Flying Flatiron. The Seldom-visited crag has a few routes on it worth climbing, and although not a destination, is within a minute or two of 'Tiny Tower,' 'The Apostle,' 'Flying Flatiron,' and 'The Sphinx.' One could come to this area and make a tour of it, climbing a dozen or more routes in a day.
The Devil's Advocate has routes on it's East, West, and North faces, offering shade or sun depending upon the time of day and your intention. While we saw some hawks, wild turkeys, toads, and a king snake up there in the last few days, we did note that we saw no other people. Seldom visited might be the best description for this area.
The best route on this crag is 'Crankin-stein' but 'I want My Mummy' isn't too bad. The traditional route to the summit is the Northeast Ridge, which is an OK route but not note-worthy.

Getting There Suggest change

It's a long haul in...
Arrive at a point on the Mesa Trail South of the intersection with the West-ward Shanahan trail, and Northward of the base of the Devil's advocate. There are some relatively flat meadows here that you must head up though, keeping your eye out for the Devil's Advocate and Tiny Tower. You will loose these trails and most signs of passage, eventually arriving near their bases. This should take about 1 hour, maybe shorter coming from the Cragmor access and perhaps longer from the S. Mesa Trailhead on Marshall Road. I've done it both ways & the Cragmor area has fewer people (but less parking) and that was nice.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Advocate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 41
Pink Hyena aka Tuck n' Cover
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Kamidana
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 41
Purple Serpent
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pink Hyena aka Tuck n' Cover
 41
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Kamidana
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Purple Serpent
 41
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Advocate »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: Southeast · South
Sunny Roughly 6am to 2pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: This gets early morning light until 2/3pm. Shade from the trees makes the lower sections and belays very cold. It can be windier than Shanahan Crags or The Slab.

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