Devil's Advocate Rock Climbing
The summit block from the SW.
The Devil's advocate is a small flatiron North of the Maiden and Fatiron, and South of the Shanahan crags. It sits just below the north end of the base of the Flying Flatiron. The Seldom-visited crag has a few routes on it worth climbing, and although not a destination, is within a minute or two of 'Tiny Tower,' 'The Apostle,' 'Flying Flatiron,' and 'The Sphinx.' One could come to this area and make a tour of it, climbing a dozen or more routes in a day.
The Devil's Advocate has routes on it's East, West, and North faces, offering shade or sun depending upon the time of day and your intention. While we saw some hawks, wild turkeys, toads, and a king snake up there in the last few days, we did note that we saw no other people. Seldom visited might be the best description for this area.
The best route on this crag is 'Crankin-stein' but 'I want My Mummy' isn't too bad. The traditional route to the summit is the Northeast Ridge, which is an OK route but not note-worthy.
It's a long haul in...
Arrive at a point on the Mesa Trail South of the intersection with the West-ward Shanahan trail, and Northward of the base of the Devil's advocate. There are some relatively flat meadows here that you must head up though, keeping your eye out for the Devil's Advocate and Tiny Tower. You will loose these trails and most signs of passage, eventually arriving near their bases. This should take about 1 hour, maybe shorter coming from the Cragmor access and perhaps longer from the S. Mesa Trailhead on Marshall Road. I've done it both ways & the Cragmor area has fewer people (but less parking) and that was nice.
Climbing Season For the South area.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Devil's Advocate
Crankin' stein 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c CO
: ... : Devil's Advocate
This fun route starts off with a radically leaning handcrack behind a set of flakes. For the first several meters you will be moving more sideways than upwards, off of rock-solid jams. It is hard work, but secure and well protected. It's the best route on the Devil's Advocate, but that is admittedly a measured compliment.Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near th...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
The Devil's Advocate as seen from the SE, near the...