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> Slatanic Area
Devil's Advocate
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Slatanic Area
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Devil's Advocate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South of Heaven S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Witch Hunt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | V. Stiefel & H. Harris, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,424 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on May 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024
Details
Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Seasonal raptor closure for entire Slatanic Area from 2/19/2014 to 6/15/2014.
Description
This route begins just left of Witch Hunt in an obvious vertical offwidth (10-). At the top of the offwidth the low angle crack veers slightly left and narrows to tips (9). Higher up the tips crack becomes steeper and angles right towards a ledge underneath a small overhang (10+). An intermittent 2" wide rail is 2' above the crack. The crux (11-) is a difficult stem / reach move, from where the tips crack and rail end, to the ledge (Slightly runout but bomber TCU's are 5' behind you).
I removed A LOT of "potato chip" flakes from the faces on either side of the tips crack (solid) enroute to the top. The route quality would improve with more
I removed A LOT of "potato chip" flakes from the faces on either side of the tips crack (solid) enroute to the top. The route quality would improve with more
Protection
Many small pieces including brass, small stoppers,and #00 - #2 TCU's plus a couple of 3.5 - 4" cams. The climb ends 90' from the ground on a ledge with a small oak tree which can be slung. Small - medium cams work well to supplement the anchor. From the ledge climb 15' to the top of Witch Hunt and rappel off of a one bolt (5/8") anchor (two ropes to the ground OR rappel to the two bolt anchor at the top of South of Heaven and then to the ground.
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