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Swamp Cooler 

Devil Tree 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Kurt Ottman, 1982
Page Views: 820
Submitted By: Wendy Marie Wilson on Jul 2, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Aptly named, Devil Tree.

Description 

Left slanting crack left of Celestial Ascension. There is a devilish tree in front of the route. Deceptively difficult.


Protection 

Descent is off the chains for Celestial Ascension or by walking down a gully to the east.Top is natural anchors.



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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Pumping jam city. Fun, physical climbing up an awkwardly sinful, steep crack. Decent gear helps combat visions of falling and Devil Tree probe-age. Not the cleanest line, but definitely fun. 10+ years ago (I swear) there were mank quarter inchers at the top, but a crack provides a plentitude of anchor choices. Scramble off east on the standard Cathedral TR Highway.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 12, 2008

Be careful on this route. The gear is all there, but at least two deck-out falls (one career-ending) have occurred on this route. The tree is always lurking and ready to give you a prostate exam.

By Ben Folsom
Aug 12, 2008

Yeah, I talked to a guy the other day up there who was just getting healed up after a bad fall on that route. I asked him if he hit the tree, and he told me he hit a lot of things.
Good route though, harder than it looks.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 5, 2010

the gear is good until the crux (funny eh?) i had a #2 camalot shift on me when i fell and thankfully it held! this climb pretty much sums up all my ferguson experiences.

By Jamie Cahoon
Jul 3, 2012

CAUTION>>>So to start this is definitely an incredibly stiff 10a. The gear looks good from below and by all means is good when you get on the route. However I am posting today post deck. I got on the climb and had two solid and I will stress solid pieces placed ( a 0.5 C4 and a purple metolius)

After climbing about 3-4 feet above the second piece I peeled from the route and BOTH pieces popped from the rock sending me about 20 feet to the ground flat on my back. I am happy to be able to be posting the next day (with some injuries laying in bed including some minor vertebrae fractures) to caution people to be very careful if you plan on attempting the route.

I cannot say with confidence why the pieces popped, as I know they were well placed - it could be the slickness at times the rock has in ferguson but I really am stumped.

So with that I just say if 10a is about where you are at in your trad leading ability, I would be very careful getting on this route - to me it does not seem like your regular 10a and now with at least three recorded incidents of people decking on this route, please be careful!!!!