Devil May Care  5.10b R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Sep 1, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

first ascent pic, taken by Fran Bagenal

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Description 

Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.

Protection 

Two sets of cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot. One #4.5, and possibly one #5. (#4.5 is especially helpful). No nuts. The gear is is in pockets or in horizontals. Several quickdraws and maybe a half-dozen shoulder-length slings. Double ropes were used on the first ascent, and help prevent rope drag. There are two bolts on top (1/2" by 4") for the 70' rappel descent.

Photos of Devil May Care Slideshow

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