Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Devil in the White House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil in the White House S 
Ethics in Bondage S 
Herculean Test, The T,S 
Steaming Piles (a.k.a. Grunge) T 

Devil in the White House 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,733
Submitted By: Kyle Townsend on Nov 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kevin R pulling through the crux of Devil in the W...

Description 

A bit run out to the first bolt, but super easy. Or you can put in a medium sized cam into the horizontal crack just before the first bolt to avoid committing to the starting move about 15 feet off the deck.

Location 

This is further up the trail from the Ampitheatre.

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on Devil in the White House Add Comment
Show which comments
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 14, 2011

Plenty of ways to climb this one. I don't think any of them are 5.11. The face crux is a bit cryptic but straightforward once unlocked. Either way you tackle the roof, it's a jug haul. Fun climb with lots of variety. A nice warmup for the harder stuff in the Ampitheater.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Mar 12, 2012

This is a fun route, although some of the rock feels a bit funky (hollow) at times. Definitely not PG13 though -- put a cam in at the start if uncomfortable with getting to the bolt line.
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 21, 2012

This route is between the Amphitheater and Big Arete areas. Going uphill on Ledge Springs Trail, you will go along a tall gray wall with a Sport bolt route to the right, the very popular 'Black Rain'. That wall has a vegetated vertical crack, then a sharp block angled out overhead with a yellow-orange color. Just past that, the wall will turn away from the trail, and that yellow-orange wall is where 'Devil' is to the right end before the big vertical crack. The ring anchors can be reached for top-rope, but it is a risky down-climb to a vegetated ledge that wraps left at the big pine. The small pine at the end is over the rings.

Kelley's guide had this route as 10d/11a, with "an easier variation" to the right toward the big crack. Jeff Dillon's pocket guide gave it 10+, with 'Herculean Test' as 11-. Most people who can do both routes say that 'Devil' is harder. The crux is clipping the third bolt and starting up from there. Most will cheat that sequence by moving left from the second bolt, or to the right. The left line is said to be more esthetic, but not really easier. It is possible to clip the third bolt from the right, which is usually easier but not easy. What remains true is that footing will be a greater problem than grips. There are many photos at ClimbPilotNC.us
.
By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
May 4, 2013

Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.
By 5.samadhi
Nov 26, 2013

this was considered mid 5.10 when I climbed it 10+ years ago.

Grade inflation???
By November Blanc
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Top anchors for DiTWH and Herculean Test were replaced April 6th, 2014 with nonlocking steel biners at the end of chains to facilitate easier cleaning.

I think Devil's easier than a 5.10d, closer to 5.10b, but definitely a must for each trip. Going left through the roof is a little harder than wandering right. A few big moves on good holds gets you up and over, and you're well protected during the harder parts.
By Kurt Fischer
Jun 23, 2014

Route was fun, but didn't feel anywhere near 5.11-. Felt more around 5.10b zone.

In the context of the bolting on the route, there are three things that (I think) should be addressed. The third bolts hanger was spinning freely on the bolt. I didn't notice any overly rusty bolts. And lastly, whoever installed the new anchors on this route and Black Rain were both nice upgrades.