|Devil in the White House
A bit run out to the first bolt, but super easy. Or you can put in a medium sized cam into the horizontal crack just before the first bolt to avoid committing to the starting move about 15 feet off the deck.
This is further up the trail from the Ampitheatre.
|Comments on Devil in the White House
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 14, 2011
Plenty of ways to climb this one. I don't think any of them are 5.11. The face crux is a bit cryptic but straightforward once unlocked. Either way you tackle the roof, it's a jug haul. Fun climb with lots of variety. A nice warmup for the harder stuff in the Ampitheater.
From: western NC
Mar 12, 2012
This is a fun route, although some of the rock feels a bit funky (hollow) at times. Definitely not PG13 though -- put a cam in at the start if uncomfortable with getting to the bolt line.
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 21, 2012
This route is between the Amphitheater and Big Arete areas. Going uphill on Ledge Springs Trail, you will go along a tall gray wall with a Sport bolt route to the right, the very popular 'Black Rain'. That wall has a vegetated vertical crack, then a sharp block angled out overhead with a yellow-orange color. Just past that, the wall will turn away from the trail, and that yellow-orange wall is where 'Devil' is to the right end before the big vertical crack. The ring anchors can be reached for top-rope, but it is a risky down-climb to a vegetated ledge that wraps left at the big pine. The small pine at the end is over the rings.
Kelley's guide had this route as 10d/11a, with "an easier variation" to the right toward the big crack. Jeff Dillon's pocket guide gave it 10+, with 'Herculean Test' as 11-. Most people who can do both routes say that 'Devil' is harder. The crux is clipping the third bolt and starting up from there. Most will cheat that sequence by moving left from the second bolt, or to the right. The left line is said to be more esthetic, but not really easier. It is possible to clip the third bolt from the right, which is usually easier but not easy. What remains true is that footing will be a greater problem than grips. There are many photos at ClimbPilotNC.us
From: Carrboro, NC
May 4, 2013
Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.
Nov 26, 2013
this was considered mid 5.10 when I climbed it 10+ years ago.