Devil in Disguise
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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Although short, this climb has good moves on steep rock. Follow laybacks past 3 bolts to the anchors. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. Climb this first and then lower to the ledge at the start of Angel of Mercy
and do that climb.
It is left of Angel of Mercy
. This can be approached from the base of Angel of Mercy
or by traversing in from the top of the cliff from left of the climb. The traverse is easy, but it is probably not "dog friendly".
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #3 Friend can be used for the belay at the base of the climb.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great holds at somewhat less than ideal angles. Climbs like a steep route- too bad it is a pain to get to the base and too bad its only 20' long... 5X longer would make it a sought-after classic.
By Jay Eggleston
Apr 28, 2013
This looks a lot harder from the ground than it really is.
By Drew Megura
Aug 6, 2015
Surprisingly enjoyed this route. It's a pain to find but actually not too hard to get to. The route feels like more of a boulder problem as all the moves seem sustained but for only ~20 feet of climbing. I noticed the hanger on the right anchor when looking up was a little loose, but the bolt seemed tight. I'd say this route is still worth checking out.