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 ADVANCED
The Old Woman - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Cabbage T 
Buttered Croissant T 
Deviate T 
Geronimo T 
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 
Judas T 
Spider T 
Spider Line T 
Tabby Litter T 
Toe Jam T 

Deviate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (to ledge) Dick Webster, April 1969, (complete route) Dick James & John Wolfe, May 1969
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Apr 16, 2012

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Description 

Clip a low first bolt, crank over a short overhang (harder for shorties), then work your way right and up past one more bolt (crux) on some of the greasiest, most slippery smears found in the campground. Easier terrain and and a few pieces of gear lead to a scrunchy low angle chimney and the bolted belay. Rap from here or use long slings and link it up with the fun roof of Geronimo above.

Not particulary memorable except for the section of seemingly frictionless smears. 1 star out of 5.

Location 

Just right of Spider Line, and directly below Geronimo roof.

Protection 

2 bolts (3/8's), light rack of mostly small pieces, 2 bolt rap anchor. A few larger cams and long slings if linking into Geronimo 5.7.


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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2012

This was the first climb I ever led. A very poor choice! I had to aid past the crux bolt.
By Brian Chastain
Apr 13, 2014

I can't believe how fun this climb turned out to be. Must do for in camp fun. Gets one star, but I say it should get two. One for being super fun and one for being right in camp.