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Routes Sorted
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Alvin's Route (TR) 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brain Child 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Missing Mind 
Molar Concentration 
Mole's Corner 
Monkey Paws 
Night Country 
Nova Express 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Pump Lust 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Side Effect 
Split Pea 
Telegraph Crack 
Thing, The 
Two Fingers Gold 
Unknown (5.10d) 
Unknown 5.7 
Welcome to My Nightmare 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Aerili on Jul 8, 2010
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Malieka on the pull-around move.

August 2009


Start up a small, left-facing corner which leads into a somewhat heady traverse with insecure feet. The traverse takes you left around a thick, triangular flake which then joins the Devaluation Direct line. Continue climbing the thinner, left-facing corner toward the "death block" at 11 o'clock above.


Left of Crack of the Eighties. Walk off the top to climber's right.


Rack to 3". Tricky pro on the initial start and traverse--place carefully and use multi-directional pieces to avoid zippering!

Gear anchor required.

Photos of Devaluation Slideshow Add Photo
The start of Devaluation. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: The start of Devaluation.

Bob  on the traverse
Bob on the traverse
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By peachy spohn
Sep 2, 2013

The block is quite unnerving! I used it, but pulled as lightly as I could. I think the 5.9 variation on the right (small dihedral and lay back section) is much safer and just as fun.