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Detox Wall

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Betty Ford's Route S 
Daily Prayer S,TR 
Fallen Spirits S 
Intervention S 
Jonesin' S 
Loading Dose S 
Methadone S 
Straight Jacket S,TR 
Unknown S,TR 
With Draws S 

Detox Wall 


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Location: 38.80482, -120.00376 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,583
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 14, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Detox Wall

Description 

The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.

Numerous weathered cracks wind their way up Detox wall. The climbing tends to use these cracks and other features on the verical granite face. Climbs vary from 5.9 to 5.11d, and tend to be pretty sustained for the entirety of the 50 feet of climbing. There are also some sport routes not mentioned in Carville's guide around the corner to the right, they go at .10d, .10c and .9 from left to right.


Getting There 

Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.


Climbing Season


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Detox Wall:
Betty Ford's Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 95'   
Methadone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Detox Wall

Featured Route For Detox Wall
Jonesin' from across the slab.

Jonesin' 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Detox Wall
Ascend the left-facing wall up to the ledge where most of the climbs on Detox Wall begin. Great incut holds appear everywhere you want them, though they're not very apparent from the ground.This is the left-most route at the area, with shiny bolts. The painted bolts on the arete to the right are Unknown....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Detox Wall Slideshow Add Photo
luther Rock Overview Map
BETA PHOTO: luther Rock Overview Map
Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion of the approach / descent trail.  All the climbs can be seen on the wall except for the 5.9, which is immediately around to the right of the picture.
BETA PHOTO: Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion ...
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