The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.
Numerous weathered cracks wind their way up Detox wall. The climbing tends to use these cracks and other features on the verical granite face. Climbs vary from 5.9 to 5.11d, and tend to be pretty sustained for the entirety of the 50 feet of climbing. There are also some sport routes not mentioned in Carville's guide around the corner to the right, they go at .10d, .10c and .9 from left to right.
Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Detox Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Detox Wall:
Methadone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Detox Wall
Jonesin' 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CA
: ... : Detox Wall
Ascend the left-facing wall up to the ledge where most of the climbs on Detox Wall begin. Great incut holds appear everywhere you want them, though they're not very apparent from the ground.This is the left-most route at the area, with shiny bolts. The painted bolts on the arete to the right are Unknown....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion ...
BETA PHOTO: Luther Rock Overview Map