The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.
Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.
Browse More Classics in Detox Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Detox Wall:
Betty Ford's Route 5.9 Sport, 95 feet
Jonesin' 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Methadone 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Daily Prayer 5.10c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Intervention 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
With Draws 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Loading Dose 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Fallen Spirits 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For Detox Wall
Methadone 5.10a CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Detox Wall
The left-most bolted climb on the Detox Wall, Methadone is a fun route that just doesn't stop. The crux is right at the second bolt, but the climb continues to be sustained all the way to the end. Most of the challenge is simply route finding as a lot of lateral movement is required to do the route as a .10a.Methadone is always worth warming up on before moving right to the tougher climbs on the wall....[more] Browse More Classics in CA