Desperation 5.10c
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Description This route was recently retro bolted and its a situation where it was well warranted. I've climbed this route pre and post bolts and having solid fixed protection does not detract from the climbing.
Start left of the BBB and climb 10 feet up to the first bolt, move up and left on thin edges and slopers to a ledge, traverse slightly left then back right on steep slopers and jugs to a strange v slot at a roof, layback around the v slot getting your feet on a small ledge below the slot, rest then move up on less than inspiring rock to the chains.
Location Just left of the BBB on the main approach trail to the cliff.
Protection the crux and below is sporty bolted, after the v groove I would bring a small rack .4-2.
By JChepes
From: North Andover, MA
Sep 16, 2012
| Love the homemade bolts. |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 19, 2012
| layback crux is totally sweet! |
By WillCarey
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.9-
| Homemade hangers are gone.
We replaced them with painted store bought hangers. |
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.9-
| Nice clean 5.7 face to a bolt protected one move 8+/9- step up at the layback. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 21, 2012
| is this the route that finish left of the finger crack (bbb?) in that flare? |
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.9-
| Yeah, the bolted line just left of BBB that leads up to a layback flake. |
By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a
| Off-balancy moves lead to a cool move around the flake, but not the greatest route at the Pond. |
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
May 9, 2013
| Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right? |
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