Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Potrillo Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ardeidae Arete 
Belly Flop 
Belly Up 
Call of the Crane 
Car Camping with the Kids 
Cave Route Center 
Chuckwalla 
Chuckwalla Right 
Cindy's Chimney 
Desperate (Left) 
Double Trouble 
Dream of White Gerbils 
Fickle Fingers 
Fool on the Hill 
Grandstanding 
Gymnast 
Heron's Fissure 
Jane 
Kor's Dog 
Left Cave Route 
Lower Kor's Crack 
Pieces of Eight 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 
Porky's Bad Luck 
Right Cave Route 
Route 1 
Route 1.5 
Route 19 
Route 4 
Shaky Flake 
Sleeper 
Tarzan 
Upper Kor's Crack 

Desperate (Left) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 16, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Kor's Dog (5.8), Desperate (Left) 5.8, and Despera...

Description 

This is the first listed variant of route #12 in the online guide.
Start up a broken crack system to a bulging block. Go around the right side, then aim left to gain a stance below a pair of converging cracks. Follow the flaring crack/seam on the right to the top.

Desperate (Left) is indicated as an option in the online guide, and by Beverly (2006:208) and Jackson (2006:189-190).
It's not clear from the guide books if the hand crack immediately to the left (Kor's Dog) is on or off. The online guide describes Desperate (Left) as following the "left-trending crack system to the top" (italics added), so I'd argue that both cracks are on-route, since they're only ~14 inches apart at the top.


Location 

On the west-facing cliff. Start on the cracked face left of Gymnast/Upper Kor's.


Protection 

Standard trad rack to 2.5". Gear anchor on top.



Comments on Desperate (Left) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Mar 16, 2009

At the top, the hand crack just to the left is apparently the 5.8 route "Kor's Dog." These cracks converge at the top, where they're only ~14 inches apart, so calling them separate routes seems contrived, if by that you mean that one crack is off-limits while you're climbing the other one.
I stuck with the Desperate crack until the last 3 feet, when I had to submit to the urge to jam a cam in Kor's Dog and yard up on the hand jams offered by that crack. Plus, all the while, I had been stemming off the wall farther left of Kor's Dog, so..... Was that wrong, should I not have done that?

By Devin Shunk
Mar 17, 2009

I agree completely. This isn't a gym. If it is within my reach, I will use it (a 6'8" wingspan allows me to reach many things that some probably consider "off-route" - but I don't care, I need all the help I can get). ;)

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 17, 2009

I would agree for any area, you are outside everything is on. If a previous party did not use it that is their problem not yours and they were trying to force something that is not there or did a poor job of forcing it.

@ Devin, you make it sound as though a 6'8" wingspan is a disadvantage with your wording. I would tend to say that most people would disagree with that. Though when trying to do a tight cross or something it really is a disadvantage.

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Mar 17, 2009

Thanks guys. My George Castanza quote aside, I'm not too terribly worried about my choice to use both cracks. As long as the moves are 5.8.

By Devin Shunk
Mar 17, 2009

No, I didn't mean to make it sound that my wingspan was a bad thing. I can see how it sounds like that. I will change the wording. ;-)