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Middle Cathedral Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bircheff-Williams T 
Border Country T 
Bottom Feeder T 
Cat Dancing T 
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 
Desperate for Doughnuts T 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 
East Buttress T 
Ennui T 
Exodus T 
Father Time T 
Flakes, The T 
Freewheelin' T 
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 
Home Run T 
Kor-Beck T 
North Buttress T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pee Pee Pillar T 
Quicksilver T 
Rainbow bridge S 
Ramer S 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Stoner's Highway T 
Stupid Pet Tricks T 
Tapestry T 
Tears of Joy T 
Walk of Life T 

Desperate for Doughnuts 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brad Young and Tom Barney (Oct, ’91)
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 15, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun short climb that is a good warm-up for some of the 5.10’s in the area. It is located immediately right of the North Face Apron on a small exfoliation “pedestal”. The Reid guide topo incorrectly shows it starting 200ft to the right of Tears of Joy. It’s actually only like 40ft to the right. It has mostly easy climbing on big edges past 4 bolts with a distinct crux at the very end. It felt a little stout for 5.8, but it’s still the easiest thing in the area. It shares an anchor with Ennui (11a) to the right.


Bolts, 2-bolt anchor/rap.

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