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Middle Cathedral Rock
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Bircheff-Williams 
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Desperate for Doughnuts 
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Tears of Joy 
Unsorted Routes:

Desperate for Doughnuts 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brad Young and Tom Barney (Oct, ’91)
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 15, 2012
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Description 

This is a fun short climb that is a good warm-up for some of the 5.10’s in the area. It is located immediately right of the North Face Apron on a small exfoliation “pedestal”. The Reid guide topo incorrectly shows it starting 200ft to the right of Tears of Joy. It’s actually only like 40ft to the right. It has mostly easy climbing on big edges past 4 bolts with a distinct crux at the very end. It felt a little stout for 5.8, but it’s still the easiest thing in the area. It shares an anchor with Ennui (11a) to the right.


Protection 

Bolts, 2-bolt anchor/rap.



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