Until I re-cleaned this route and tried the moves, I didn't realize that its name was actually a description. Desperate is right, especially if you're sick enough to lead it.
Starting nicely up a crack/flake and moving right to a jug, this climb turns stout and crimpy in a hurry. From the jug, match on a crimp/sidepull and enjoy the hard sequence past a 3-finger single-pad gaston, a half-pad undercling, and a slopey pinch to gain a jug in the depression. This is also your last gear placement if you're on lead. Move left and make a large move to a crimp before hiking your feet and attempting to find a sequence that will get you to the lip.
At the far left end of the Upper Cliff, just right of Far Out Jam and Bean Pole.
Toprope. If you're plugging gear, think small and then reconsider even leading this.
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009
haha brice i like your protection info lol :) this does look wicked cool but i would think the lead is up to the huge burly dudes who have nuts the size of grapefruits :)
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 3, 2009
I just didn't want anyone to try leading this without realizing that there is only 1 gear placement (roughly a #6 stopper) in a span of 30 feet or so.
On a side note, I spell my name with a Y, not an I.