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This is a fantastic 5.9! Climb up the face to reach the overhang and then traverse Right to reach a left facing corner (crux). Follow the corner to a large ledge. The traverse to the right is the business and coolest part of the climb. Well protected and exciting!
Find a fairly obvious overhang and left facing corner system as you walk uphill from Great Imposter.
Hands size gear and smaller.
BETA PHOTO: Desperado. Regular start is on the Center/Left, D...
|By C Runyan|
Jul 21, 2008
Great climb. Exciting moves punctuated by great rests. It doesn't look that pretty from below, but it's a whole lot of fun.
|By K Baumgartner|
Sep 16, 2012
Couldn't find a placement under the roof, so I ended up clipping the bolt before the traverse that's higher up.
Stellar roof that's a bit of a bear pulling up on with no holds. Definitely a sweet sequence. Next little corner presents some nice finger locks.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
You can protect the traverse moves under the roof with a blue-yellow offset master cam/tcu or similar. Bomber piece in a flaring crack that has a bunch of chalk on it. You can also plug great gear in the overhang, below and right of the horn.
No maintained rap station at the top. Bring slings & rings for the tree or be prepared to downclimb the last bit of Roux to a set of shuts above Really Flakey (going south) OR downclimbing 5.2ish by a huge pine tree and ledgey area (going north). You could also probably walk-off if you bring your approach shoes up with you.