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 ADVANCED
North Peak, East Face
Select Route:
Bandito T 
Bear's Delight T 
Desperado T 
Finger Stinger T 
Great Impostor T 
Helter Skelter T 
Keds T 
Lichen or Leave It T 
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 
Psychoprophylaxis T 
Really Flaky T 
Roux T 
Rox Salt T 
Streptococcus T 
Unrelenting Verticality T 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Buddy Guthrie, Dee Dee Guthrie
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Jon St John pulls the roof on Desperado (5.9) at S...

Description 

This is a fantastic 5.9! Climb up the face to reach the overhang and then traverse Right to reach a left facing corner (crux). Follow the corner to a large ledge. The traverse to the right is the business and coolest part of the climb. Well protected and exciting!

Location 

Find a fairly obvious overhang and left facing corner system as you walk uphill from Great Imposter.

Protection 

Hands size gear and smaller.


Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Desperado.  Regular start is on the Center/Left, Desperado Direct starts at the base of the dihedral (11B).
BETA PHOTO: Desperado. Regular start is on the Center/Left, D...

Comments on Desperado Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Jul 21, 2008

Great climb. Exciting moves punctuated by great rests. It doesn't look that pretty from below, but it's a whole lot of fun.
By K Baumgartner
Sep 16, 2012

Couldn't find a placement under the roof, so I ended up clipping the bolt before the traverse that's higher up.

Stellar roof that's a bit of a bear pulling up on with no holds. Definitely a sweet sequence. Next little corner presents some nice finger locks.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can protect the traverse moves under the roof with a blue-yellow offset master cam/tcu or similar. Bomber piece in a flaring crack that has a bunch of chalk on it. You can also plug great gear in the overhang, below and right of the horn.

No maintained rap station at the top. Bring slings & rings for the tree or be prepared to downclimb the last bit of Roux to a set of shuts above Really Flakey (going south) OR downclimbing 5.2ish by a huge pine tree and ledgey area (going north). You could also probably walk-off if you bring your approach shoes up with you.