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 ADVANCED
Red Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperado S,TR 
Impossible Dream T 
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 
Mantel Route, The S,TR 
Mr. Cornflakes S 
Playground S 
Pregnant Guppy T 
Red Dwarf S,TR 
Red Red Whine S 
Red Slab S,TR 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Red Slab is the face/slab on the lower right side ...

Description 

The most difficult line up Red Slab, this fun route starts thin and ends thin. In between, there is an easy roof and somewhat-more-difficult roof.

Start directly under the first bolt (which is intimidating, but worth it). As you continue up the holds get bigger and you start breathing more easily.

Just before the roof is another thin section: staying to the right of the bolts is easier, but staying directly in the bolt line or a little left is thinner, slightly harder, and quite fun.

The well-protected roof itself is kind of tricky, but a willingness to commit on small holds will see it through.

Protection 

9 bolts, bolted anchors.

Location 

Second bolted line from the left on the "main" portion of Red Slab (this ignores the bolted line on the far left (Red Red Whine).


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

If you start true and climb it directly, the start is pretty darn tough. But the middle is REALLY mello. The upper crux isn't too bad. There are some bigish crimps up there. Just commit. Again, if you stay true at the top and don't grab the big side hold once over the roof, it adds some difficulty.
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

About 13 years ago, we noticed the new route and were trying it out, when a climber, identifying himself as "Coyote," came by & told us he had just bolted it; and that at the top, the left edge is off, yielding 11b (if we used that edge, it was 10b). I rate it 10c for the non-eliminate version.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Maybe I used the side holds up high but didn't think this one was an 11a. That could be bc I didn't look at the rating on here before doing it. I only had the '95 Ruckman guide. Fun start though.
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012

Definitely my favorite route on the wall which may not be saying much. Tough start and finish. If you position your feet right, the crimps above the roof at top aren't too bad.
By AdamHardy
From: Provo, UT
Oct 9, 2012

Not too bad at the first; the opening moves are really fun. The real business starts at the top. Still a work in progress. Any beta for the crux at the top? I feel like a cheater resorting to the left edge.