Desperado   M6 R

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800 feet Consensus:  M6 [details] FA:  Steve House and Hayden Kennedy New Route:  Yes Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Hayden Kennedy on Feb 14, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Midway up second pitch.

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Desperado is a fairly serious outing, but choss-hounds will love it. Each pitch has some run-outs, bad rock, and bad gear. Warning - on the top of pitch 3 the anchor is terrible and should get re-placed. There is one bolt and a gnarly blade in garbage rock. The climbing is pretty darn fun and is a perfect San Juan winter adventure!

P1. Go up easy mixed climbing and, depending on conditions, even some good ice up a corner through a small roof. (M5) Belay on good ledge with solid cams.

P2. Go up good mixed climbing (M5 R) up small corner to open face. Choose your own adventure on this pitch as there are a few options. Head for the obvious ledge bellow shallow chimney/groove. There are two bolts at anchor.

P3. Climb through a short but steep section off the belay trending right (M6) towards the obvious groove. Grovel your way up this awkward groove to the belay (M6 R).

P4. This is short and sweet. Climb steep M6 R terrain through a roof to easy climbing to top of wall. Belay on a solid tree.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes.

Location 

There are two obvious steep grooves left of The Ribbon. Desperado climbs the leftmost system to the top of the wall. Use the same approach as The Ribbon.

Protection 

Double set of cams to #3 and one #4, set of nuts, and a good amount of iron. If anyone does this route and wants to add a bolt to the third belay, please do so. It would be much safer that way.

Photos of Desperado Slideshow

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The steep fourth pitch.

Looking up towards the third pitch groove.