Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems 
Bird Brain Boulevard 
Cavegina 
Chock Up Another One 
Chockstone Chimney 
Choppo's Chimney 
Cinnamon and Cider 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds 
Dumpster Diver 
Fistful of Steel 
Fractured Fairytales 
Going Retro 
Goldline 
Hairy Devil 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The 
Killer Pillar 
Local Scoop, The 
M6 Corner 
M7 Crack 
Maid to Order 
Mile 4 
Negligent Behavior 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) 
Ribbon, The 
Rusty Cage 
Senator Gulch 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The 
Skylight 
Slip Sliding Away 
Slippery When Wet 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) 
Talisman, The 
Tasty Talks 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte 
Wake Up Call 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene 
Weak and the Weary 
Unsorted Routes:

Desperado  

M6 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800'
Consensus: M6 [details]
FA: Steve House and Hayden Kennedy
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Hayden Kennedy on Feb 14, 2013
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Looking up towards the third pitch groove.
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Desperado is a fairly serious outing, but choss-hounds will love it. Each pitch has some run-outs, bad rock, and bad gear. Warning - on the top of pitch 3 the anchor is terrible and should get re-placed. There is one bolt and a gnarly blade in garbage rock. The climbing is pretty darn fun and is a perfect San Juan winter adventure!

P1. Go up easy mixed climbing and, depending on conditions, even some good ice up a corner through a small roof. (M5) Belay on good ledge with solid cams.

P2. Go up good mixed climbing (M5 R) up small corner to open face. Choose your own adventure on this pitch as there are a few options. Head for the obvious ledge bellow shallow chimney/groove. There are two bolts at anchor.

P3. Climb through a short but steep section off the belay trending right (M6) towards the obvious groove. Grovel your way up this awkward groove to the belay (M6 R).

P4. This is short and sweet. Climb steep M6 R terrain through a roof to easy climbing to top of wall. Belay on a solid tree.

Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes.


Location 

There are two obvious steep grooves left of The Ribbon. Desperado climbs the leftmost system to the top of the wall. Use the same approach as The Ribbon.


Protection 

Double set of cams to #3 and one #4, set of nuts, and a good amount of iron. If anyone does this route and wants to add a bolt to the third belay, please do so. It would be much safer that way.



Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up second pitch.
Midway up second pitch.
The steep fourth pitch.
The steep fourth pitch.
This angle only allows you to see the top 3 anchors on the route, but the red Xs are accurate locations for those anchors.
This angle only allows you to see the top 3 anchor...
Comments on Desperado Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve House
Nov 30, 2013

The offending anchor was replaced with 2 good bolts in November 2013. This rig is good to go! I now think it might be closer to M7. The gear is R but not X. It is easier when there is less snow on the wall hiding the edges you'll need to use. -S. House

By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Dec 4, 2013

Good to hear, Steve, maybe Wellborn and I will get our courage up enough to give it another go! The lower gully looked to have some ice last weekend.

By Steve House
Dec 8, 2013

The belay stance at the top of P1 is marked with a piton, and it comes after climbing rightwards for a bit. It's a sloping ledge left of where the yellow-streak gets steep. Don't belay in the gut of the yellow-streak, you'll get hit by rocks. The piton should be good but was left there primarily to make the belay for others.