||Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800'
|Consensus: ||M6 [details]|
|FA: ||Steve House and Hayden Kennedy |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter |
|Page Views: ||1,055|
|Submitted By: ||hkennedy on Feb 14, 2013|
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Looking up towards the third pitch groove.
Desperado is a fairly serious outing, but choss-hounds will love it. Each pitch has some run-outs, bad rock, and bad gear. Warning - on the top of pitch 3 the anchor is terrible and should get re-placed. There is one bolt and a gnarly blade in garbage rock. The climbing is pretty darn fun and is a perfect San Juan winter adventure!
P1. Go up easy mixed climbing and, depending on conditions, even some good ice up a corner through a small roof. (M5) Belay on good ledge with solid cams.
P2. Go up good mixed climbing (M5 R) up small corner to open face. Choose your own adventure on this pitch as there are a few options. Head for the obvious ledge bellow shallow chimney/groove. There are two bolts at anchor.
P3. Climb through a short but steep section off the belay trending right (M6) towards the obvious groove. Grovel your way up this awkward groove to the belay (M6 R).
P4. This is short and sweet. Climb steep M6 R terrain through a roof to easy climbing to top of wall. Belay on a solid tree.
Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes.
There are two obvious steep grooves left of The Ribbon
. Desperado climbs the leftmost system to the top of the wall. Use the same approach as The Ribbon
Double set of cams to #3 and one #4, set of nuts, and a good amount of iron. If anyone does this route and wants to add a bolt to the third belay, please do so. It would be much safer that way.
This angle only allows you to see the top 3 anchor...
By Steve House
Nov 30, 2013
The offending anchor was replaced with 2 good bolts in November 2013. This rig is good to go! I now think it might be closer to M7. The gear is R but not X. It is easier when there is less snow on the wall hiding the edges you'll need to use. -S. House
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Dec 4, 2013
Good to hear, Steve, maybe Wellborn and I will get our courage up enough to give it another go! The lower gully looked to have some ice last weekend.
By Steve House
Dec 8, 2013
The belay stance at the top of P1 is marked with a piton, and it comes after climbing rightwards for a bit. It's a sloping ledge left of where the yellow-streak gets steep. Don't belay in the gut of the yellow-streak, you'll get hit by rocks. The piton should be good but was left there primarily to make the belay for others.