This is a truly beautiful route put up by the bold and visionary Mark Moorhead. Despatched presents a formidable challenge to the seasoned trad leader and is a good entry point to the hard trad lines of the Mount.
Begin just down and right of Thunder Crack on Bluff Major. Climb up a fin and right past two bolts to a stance. Punch it up a steep cruxy bulge to a pair of horizontals (good gear), and then punch it again up a thin groove (#2/#3 RP) to thank-god gear at a very poor stance. From here perform the exposed crux traverse right past sequential holds and poor feet to a final, good cresent-shaped hold. A few more moves to the bolted anchor by the large horn. A free-hanging rappel from here gets you down, or continue up at worthwhile 5.11.
The anchor at the the top of the first pitch is the anchor for the infamous "Giant Rope Swing"... a great rest-day activity.
A light rack to a #1 Camalot.
|By Seth Dyer|
Feb 23, 2007
Of all the routes that I've been on during my visits to Araps, this is one of the very few I've been on more than once(not because everything else was unworthy, but because this line is unbelievably good). This route has anything and everything one could ever ask for! An absolute must do for the grade.