Desp-Arête 5.10d PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Gary Olsen, Stuart Ruckman and Chris Pendleton, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Brough on Aug 2, 2006 |
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Desp-Arete
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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
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Description Exciting arête climbing that keeps coming at you. Sure, you get a little rest atop the pedestal, but this route can be deceptively difficult. The crux is definitely after the sixth clip (first bolt after the two pins). Some desperate, committing moves will get you to the top, if they hold. Relatively clean for the Hellgate.
Location On the arete of Tower Two. A 60 meter rope will get you down to the ramp inside the "Shooting Gallery" between Towers Two and Three. Otherwise, climb to the top of the tower and use the Anchors for Social Realism to get down.
Protection 8 bolts, 3 pins and a 2 bolt anchor with slings. Bring 11 QDs and a helmet.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.10d
| Fun route for sure. The bolts are "well spaced", so expect some sizable falls if you blow it in the wrong spot.
Also, the anchor is a mess of realy old slings going through a couple of bolts. Someone should cut the webbing that's there and replace it, or put in chains? I also couldn't lower off the route, it was too long even for a 60m. I had to belay my partner up, and then a single rope rap barely made it to the gully, so be aware of that. Great climbing though. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.10d PG13
| We always belay from the top of Social Realism - great views! A single 60m gets you down from there. |
By Allen Sanderson
Aug 13, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b
| Sometime this year the anchors got cleaned up. You can rap off into the gully with a 60m rope it just barely makes it down. Rapping anyother way will not make it to the ground.
The route is easier than 10d and the bolts are nicely spaced - the way they should be. |
By wilcox510
Jul 2, 2008
| Decent route, falling at the crux could be ugly, easy to hit the pillar below. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 10, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13
| I think the crux is maybe a bit harder than 10b. And as wilcox states it would be a bad place to fall in which my opinion warrants the higher grad. Thanks to whoever cleaned up the anchors! |
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