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Desolation Row 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: When dry
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When you first look at this climb you might wonder why we bothered to climb it. To be honest I am not sure the rational but I am glad we did. There is some really fun climbing hidden in the gully.

Pull into the corner/gully and get good gear. Although the corner is dirty make fun moves up the solid rock aiming to the top of the gully. The crux is either pulling into the corner or at the top where you must step over a downed tree. The tree is hard to avoid and can be a rope management hazard.

Climb to the top then pick a tree to make an anchor to bring your second up on.

If the climb gets cleaned and the tree removed it would get another star. The cleaning wouldn't be hard but the downed tree will be difficult to move if there is anyone else at the cliff. It might get cleaned up at some point.

Location 

Located in the gully to the left of the hideously blank face of Tales from the Crimp .12b/c and to the right of the bouldery Gulliver's Travels .11b.

Protection 

Regular rack and slings or webbing for an anchor at the trees.


Photos of Desolation Row Slideshow Add Photo
Tim pulling into the corner.
Tim pulling into the corner.
Tim clipping just before the tree.
Tim clipping just before the tree.
Fun movement on this route.
Fun movement on this route.

Comments on Desolation Row Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2011
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2011

This route was developed ground up and onsight. With that said, there didn't seem to be much loose rock but there is some moss and the downed tree. I will try to clean this up in the not so distant future.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 17, 2011

haha nice! my kind of route :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2011

Actually though of you Lee while doing this haha
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 17, 2011

Maybe we need a new section for Rumney, called "Obscure Choss Heaps, Scrambles and Bushwhacks". : ) ( I can see a future Rock and Ice article. It could help kill off the popularity of Rumney and leave it for the locals)

Do you think maybe too many of these in the regular sections might end up burying the noteworthy climbs?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2011

I don't think it will bury the noteworthy climbs, thats what the star rating system is for. While I agree this isn't a classic (far from it), I don't think it should be censored out of the database.

I have caught flack before about The Searcher's at Jimmy Cliff, this climb like that climb doesn't provide clean, well bolted climbing that Rumney is known for, but it is a fun adventure, posted to let people know what is out there. I like to seek out climbs like this, so it is good to see what people have done.

The only Bad thing about this route is the downed tree, the moss is not that bad and will be cleaned.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 18, 2011

"insert joke that can't be taken as a joke"
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 18, 2011

I think it is amusing how, in Rumney a route that is not a perfectly clean sport climb gets scoffed at. I know that is the style that Rumney is known for but that doesnt mean there aren't other types of climbs people can climb here. This route will prob be climbed by Lee (as I know he enjoys these sorts of climbs) and then never touched again, but it was fun and enjoyable experience for Tim and myself and we posted it to share for anyone searching for something different in Rumney, not so it can be scoffed at by people.

Also I agree that some of Bradley's routes are not highest quality, but have some respect, he is going out doing what he likes, don't judge him for that.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2011

I'm just busting you, Matt, though I was semi serious about if every obscure scramble is posted, what most people are looking for could be buried in a deluge. Which was not to take away from your enjoyment. After all, I think Mister Quinn, myself and others have scrambled up just about every combination under 5.7 of gully and semi route while we were hanging out there and putting up the bolted routes. It is fun, especially if you have been hitting the pipeweed, but we didn't really consider them routes.

Have fun and don't let a codger get you down.
Actually, I respect Bradley a lot. I can still bust his balls some.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 18, 2011

I wasn't offended I have just noticed a trend on this site concerning the treatment of lower quality routes, or whatever you want to consider them :) I have one question though Mark... 4 stars?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 18, 2011

yeah, ill climb it :) glad you thought of me...
i love rock climbs... period!
we are all having fun and that's the point :)

i once had a plan to make a movie called "rumney's worst" since i was climbing them anyway i thought i'd capture the ridiculousness on film... perhaps its time to make it happen :) and when it hits youtube it will cut down the crowds big time haha
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 19, 2011

M Sprague wrote:
Maybe we need a new section for Rumney, called "Obscure Choss Heaps, Scrambles and Bushwhacks"...Do you think maybe too many of these in the regular sections might end up burying the noteworthy climbs?


I have actually been thinking about this lately, and I agree that some of the more "classic" Rumney climbs are getting drowned out by the numerous new additions.

While I'm not in flavor of segregating routes into two different sections (who am I to decide which is classic?), I think the use of stars might help to separate the classic from the mossy. When you're submitting a route, ask yourself if it's truly a 2 or 3 star route. Chances are, it's not, and deserves 1 star, or a bomb.

BTW, I gave this route a bomb rating to balance out Mark's 4-star rating. Mark, has climbing at Greens skewed your perspective that much?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 19, 2011

There is usually a method to my madness.

So, am I going to get you out to Green's and/or Owl's this year, Jay? For your first visit, definitely wait until after the bugs.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 23, 2011

Hey guys, In reading the comments I wasn't surprised to see my name come up as a topic of writing on this one. I really like the name Ball Buster, Mark, and you will probably get a chance to bust my balls again sometime. I won't go off the handle again though. When I find another decent hard-man's route at Rumney that's appropriate for Ball Buster, I'm going to name it that. When I started in 1980 at Rattlesnake, my friends nicknamed me Mung because of all the dirty mossy climbs on boulders and short crags I would do free solo. It's now my email address name.
By Michael Z.
Oct 12, 2011

FA Matt, Really? Too much pipeweed maybe
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 13, 2011

took the FA credit off.

Jay, I think this route will be a decent route once i clean it up (which will be after the prime fall season is over). But since it offends so many people feel free to take it down and I will repost it when its clean. Dont want people losing sleep over something so small.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 13, 2011

for the record i think its lame that you shared a fun experience with everyone and ended up taking a bunch of shit for it... it's a rock climb like any other one... and why is it that people said its not worth putting up but then everyone wants to tell you how they did it first... interesting... anyway, dont let it keep you down! stay inspired and keep helping us make NH mountain project some of the best climbing content on the web!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2011

I think the brothers Heinrich and Hermann the squirrels got the FA a long time ago. Fritz Wiessner and most of the other Rumney pioneers tried earlier, but turned back on account of the exposure. The quote from Fritz was " No Fukken veh mann"