|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Anonymous Coward on Sep 1, 2002|
|Comments on Desolation Angels||Add Comment|
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By Roy Leggett
Jul 28, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
This is an awesome route. IMO, it is one of the better single pitches in the Estes Park area. There is some lichen issues, and it needs some more traffic, but I've been on it 3 times in the past 2 months, and it has gotten exponentially cleaner.
The route takes great gear and has clean falls. The three cruxes are getting underneath the roof, turning the lip of the roof, then the upper dihedral.
A great way to do the route (and truly test you stamina) is to climb the slightly overhung finger crack between Tipendicular and the chossy chimney. This crack is about 11b. You can link this to the upper half of the route by using long draws and bringing a few extra tips and finger size pieces.