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Bumbling Stock
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Crack a Beer T 
Desiderata S 


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D.Mabe, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Brandon Patterson on "The Desiderata", M...

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  • Description 

    Currently this is the only bolted line at the Bumbling Stock. Start in the center of the crag at a right-facing flake. A midway optional belay anchor reduces the drag. Otherwise, bring a few longer draws and a 60m or 70m rope.

    Lieback the flake, mantle onto a ramp. Steep slab smears to a cruxy arete move (10+ish). Easier climbing leads you to a right-leaning undercling corner (2nd crux) and over a small roof. Finish on steep headwall, with a last tricky highstep crux at the last bolt. The anchors are set back on a nice ledge.

    Lower 105' to ground. A 60m rope barely makes it.


    This is almost smack dab in the middle of the crag, left of the Crack a Beer OW.


    13 bolts to the chains.

    Photos of Desiderata Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2...
    Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. March ...
    Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. March ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon, through the crux March 2007, photo by Ada...
    Brandon, through the crux March 2007, photo by Ada...

    Comments on Desiderata Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tom Lekan
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 5, 2010

    A #0.75 through 1 Camalot can be used to protect on the ramp between bolts 2 and 3. Considerably easier terrain, but 15ft runout with groundfall potential here.
    By SteveZ
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 19, 2014
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Apr 21, 2014

    With a few pieces of gear, possibly a better entry is with the start of Crack a Beer to access the headwall.

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