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The crux of this route seems to be the sixth pitch, moving past a small cactus on thin (equalized - in my case) gear - you really don't want to fall here. The first ascent of this route was done by Nick Nordblom, and he did it solo - way cool! I couldn't think of a better way to do the 2nd ascent, so I attempted to do it solo as well. After running out of rope on the first pitch (I set my belay too low..) in a thunderstorm, replete with lightning strikes in the canyon below, I decided I needed a partner - Brad Stewart
A basic aid rack with a little emphasis (doubles) on some of the thin stuff, FA recommends 9 knifeblades, 8 Lost Arrows, 3 Angles (2 1/2" & 1 5/8") and a couple of hooks (cliffhangers). FA also recommends a bird beak & a crack tack (although we didn't use them) & a #1 copperhead, probably for a drilled hole but I don't think we used that either. It's kinda funky leaving the ledge from the top of the sixth pitch - you need to go left to into a small left-facing corner with a decent crack, and work your way up past a gangly, dead tree in the crack. The rest is cake... just watch out for a couple of loose blocks - no big deal.
|Comments on Desert Solitaire
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 14, 2008
Very sweet. Nice to hear people are getting up there. . . well at least you are. I have thought about going up to do one of those things. You are definately going where few have (or ever will) go.
From: the mountains
Oct 5, 2008
Kellen Nelson (of NelsonVs.Hutchenpsycle uber-fame) and l climbed this line in May of 2005. I hitched from Fort Collins to Kellen's house in Reno. We drove to Vegas, climbed the wall(ran out of food and water--walk down descent sucks), and hitched back to the Fort. Outstanding line. Kellen took a factor-2 35footer and fully blew out a screamer on pitch two trying to go clean. A few small KBs and several peckers and RURPs were needed on three pitches. This line runs straight up the middle of the wall, aesthetic. Solo FA is Bold.
Needs to be done sans hammer. Though seems unlikely...
Descent: We tried the walk-down on the backside. We didn't want to rappel with bags. It was a bad idea, descending the rappel anchors is the way to go, without a doubt.