Desert Siren (Tower)
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Ian Allison (solo) FFA: Ian Allison,Eric Dixon & Brad Brandewie|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||IanA on Apr 12, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the obvious left facing corner t...
This route climbs the prominent tower on the right side of Blue Gramma.
Pitch 1: (5.11) Starts on a good ledge just below a large juniper tree. Climb up slabby rock to the crack in a left facing corner. The crack starts out .75 camalot but quickly gets wider to a #3 camalot climb into pod just below the flared roof crack which is protected by a old 4.5 camalot. Climb out roof crack (crux) mostly #3 camalot but takes #4's at the lip. Pull roof on to small ledge and continue up to large sloping ledge to the right of the blunt arete. Build an anchor here in the horizontal .75- 3 Camalots.
Pitch 2: (5.10 PG13) Climb left around the arete and on to the face. At the first broken section you can get a red alien or .75 camalot. Continue face climbing up on good features following 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor just below the summit.
Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from the two bolt anchor on the summit. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. Be careful to not get you rope stuck in the crack.
Hike up to Blue Gramma and head right of Petrelli Motors walk past the large pictographs until you are under the tower. Pick you way up to the ledge just below the obvious left facing corner and the large juniper tree.
Standard desert rack with triples 3's and two 4's, 5 quick draws for the 2nd pitch, some runners for the roof on the 1st pitch and 2 ropes.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo.
Eric Dixon pulling the roof on the first pitch.
Me heading up on lead to finish drilling.
Brad Brandewie follow in the second pitch.
Ian Allison and Eric Dixon on the FA of Desert Sir...
Here is a wider view of the tower.
This photo sho...
I would like everyone to be aware of the loose roc...
|Comments on Desert Siren (Tower)
|By Ben Kiessel|
Dec 6, 2010
Damn Ian! Nice work on that second pitch! To be honest I thought the roof was pretty cruiser although a little awkward. While the beginning of the second pitch was pretty damn burl. Getting to the first gear in the broken crack was heads up for sure and once I got to the bolt I tried freeing but said screw it and aided the rest.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 11, 2011
I remember watching Ian walk up that face with all sorts of crap hanging off his harness...Bosch, bolts, hammer, etc...and then following it saying, "really?". The first pitch really isn't that bad, most of the flaky stuff has to be gone. Besides, I'm not that good at offwidths.
|By Devin Fin|
Apr 24, 2012
great work!!! had a blast on this fun tower outing . sweet 2nd pitch real desert sport at its finest ...