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Desert Shield 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers
Page Views: 3,303
Submitted By: Max on Mar 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The impressive corner of "Desert Sheild"

Description 

The mega classic corner looming overhead when you get to the top of the trail. Desert Shield is probably one of the best .12s in the Creek. The climbing up to the bolt is casual, and then it's on. Stemming seemed to be the key, both at the bolt and through the upper corner.

Protection 

4x .5"; 6x .75"; 3x 1"; 1 each green, red, gold Camalot; couple slings and few QDs.


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By Scott Bennett
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.

Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key.
Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above.
The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.

The rack suggested seems just right, although I didn't place the Green or Red Camalot (the Yellow Camalot is handy for the very top). For sure two ropes to get down, it's a long one.

Enjoy!

-Scott
By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This was one of my few hard onsights that I still have the itch to repeat. I did it in 2008, but every time I'm there, I look up and want to sack up for it again ... and then I remember how many routes I still haven't climbed at this stacked cliff. The bluer the sky and the less chalk that is on it, the more I want to go back up there.