|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 130'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Max on Mar 16, 2007|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Desert Shield||Add Comment|
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By Scott Bennett
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.
Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key.
Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above.
The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.
The rack suggested seems just right, although I didn't place the Green or Red Camalot (the Yellow Camalot is handy for the very top). For sure two ropes to get down, it's a long one.