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Desert Queen Mine

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Cocoa Crag 
Desert Queen Dome 
Dike Rock 
Double Cross Rocks 
Fraggle Rock 
Gold Nuggets, The 
Lion, The 
Lower Tier, The 
Mother Lode Wall 
Poodle Rock 
Queen Crimson Dome 
Scary Tree Pinnacles 
Silverado Area 
Towers, The 

Desert Queen Mine Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,400'
Location: 34.02196, -116.06769 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,351
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 4, 2003
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The wash below Desert Queen Mine, Joshua Tree NP

Description 

Located north of the Queen Valley Road, somewhat midway between Jumbo Rocks and Sheep Pass CG, is this fairly accessible area with a remote and somewhat wild feel. Depending upon your motivation or proclivity you might climb close to the car, or venture out into one of the Park's lesser-visited areas and possibly discover some relics from the area's rich mining past. This is an area to visit if seeking solitude and quality engaging routes, of which there are many.

Those seeking cracks will be rewarded with such gems as Tiers for Fears (5.10b), The Goldigger (5.10c), Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) (5.10d), Silverado (5.11b) and Nerve Storm (5.11c). Face climbing enthusiasts will want to do Once in a Lifetime (5.7), Get the Balance Right (5.10a) Times of Holyness (5.11c), I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Cosmic Trigger (5.12d).


Getting There 

Driving east from Sheep Pass CG, there is a right turn towards the signed Geology Tour Road; more or less directly across from this is the dirt road to the Desert Queen Mine area. Drive the dirt road, staying right when necessary, to a parking area one and a quarter miles from the paved Queen Valley Road. The trail to the various rocks lies at the east end of the parking area and winds downhill to the base of a large hillside with several sealed mineshafts. Climbing back up to a large plateau behind the mineshafts leads to a rough landscape of valleys and hills with scattered rock formations. Scattered throughout this landscape are many enticing routes. Plan on thirty to forty-five minutes to Fraggle Rock, the furthest crag from the parking area.


Climbing Season



Weather station 7.8 miles from here

45 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',22],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Desert Queen Mine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Desert Queen Mine:
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Fraggle Rock
Tiers for Fears   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Fraggle Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Desert Queen Mine

Featured Route For Desert Queen Mine
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin is In, 5.9

Thin Is In 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Mother Lode Wall
Climb a clean, steep finger crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Desert Queen Mine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Queen Mine info sign, Joshua Tree NP
Desert Queen Mine info sign, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Queen Mine area. Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Queen Mine area. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Interesting rock formation abound near the DQM, Jo...
Interesting rock formation abound near the DQM, Jo...
Rock Climbing Photo: View towards the Wonderland from the road into Des...
View towards the Wonderland from the road into Des...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mining relics near the Desert Queen Mine, Joshua T...
Mining relics near the Desert Queen Mine, Joshua T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Odd things in the desert...
Odd things in the desert...
Rock Climbing Photo: Miner's cabin ruin near the DQM parking area, Josh...
Miner's cabin ruin near the DQM parking area, Josh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mother Lode Wall
BETA PHOTO: Mother Lode Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Queen Mine showing the Gold Dust area (lowe...
BETA PHOTO: Desert Queen Mine showing the Gold Dust area (lowe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Queen Dome
Desert Queen Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Historical graffiti in the wash below Desert Queen...
Historical graffiti in the wash below Desert Queen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scary Tree Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Scary Tree Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Great views are common in the Desert Queen Mine ar...
Great views are common in the Desert Queen Mine ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the many mines in the area.  This one is ve...
One of the many mines in the area. This one is ve...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the many closed adits in the area, Joshua T...
One of the many closed adits in the area, Joshua T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gold Nuggets.  Note hikers in the lower portio...
BETA PHOTO: The Gold Nuggets. Note hikers in the lower portio...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the road to Desert Queen Mine, Joshua Tree NP
On the road to Desert Queen Mine, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: San Jacinto as seen from Queen Valley. Photo by Bl...
San Jacinto as seen from Queen Valley. Photo by Bl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rico stepping right.
Rico stepping right.

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