Desert Queen Mine Rock Climbing
The wash below Desert Queen Mine, Joshua Tree NP
Located north of the Queen Valley Road, somewhat midway between Jumbo Rocks and Sheep Pass CG, is this fairly accessible area with a remote and somewhat wild feel. Depending upon your motivation or proclivity you might climb close to the car, or venture out into one of the Park's lesser-visited areas and possibly discover some relics from the area's rich mining past. This is an area to visit if seeking solitude and quality engaging routes, of which there are many.
Those seeking cracks will be rewarded with such gems as Tiers for Fears
(5.10b), The Goldigger
(5.10c), Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor)
(5.11b) and Nerve Storm
(5.11c). Face climbing enthusiasts will want to do Once in a Lifetime
(5.7), Get the Balance Right
(5.10a) Times of Holyness (5.11c), I Have The Touch
(5.12b) and Cosmic Trigger
Driving east from Sheep Pass CG, there is a right turn towards the signed Geology Tour Road; more or less directly across from this is the dirt road to the Desert Queen Mine area. Drive the dirt road, staying right when necessary, to a parking area one and a quarter miles from the paved Queen Valley Road. The trail to the various rocks lies at the east end of the parking area and winds downhill to the base of a large hillside with several sealed mineshafts. Climbing back up to a large plateau behind the mineshafts leads to a rough landscape of valleys and hills with scattered rock formations. Scattered throughout this landscape are many enticing routes. Plan on thirty to forty-five minutes to Fraggle Rock, the furthest crag from the parking area.
Climbing Season For the Joshua Tree National Park area.
Weather station 7.8 miles from here
45 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Desert Queen Mine
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Desert Queen Mine
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Desert Queen Mine:
Featured Route For Desert Queen Mine
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Fraggle Rock
About 100' left of Tiers for Fears is this fabulous corner system with twin cracks. Lieback/jam and stem your way up the corner using both cracks to a bolted anchor at a stance.Perhaps the best gear lead on the rock, this fun climb has great moves on good rock in a quiet, remote-feeling setting. Were the climb longer perhaps it would deserve more stars. Three out of five stars....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Desert Queen Mine info sign, Joshua Tree NP
Desert Queen Mine area. Photo by Blitzo.
Interesting rock formation abound near the DQM, Jo...
View towards the Wonderland from the road into Des...
Mining relics near the Desert Queen Mine, Joshua T...
Odd things in the desert...
Miner's cabin ruin near the DQM parking area, Josh...
BETA PHOTO: Mother Lode Wall
BETA PHOTO: Desert Queen Mine showing the Gold Dust area (lowe...
Historical graffiti in the wash below Desert Queen...
BETA PHOTO: Scary Tree Pinnacles
Great views are common in the Desert Queen Mine ar...
One of the many mines in the area. This one is ve...
One of the many closed adits in the area, Joshua T...
BETA PHOTO: The Gold Nuggets. Note hikers in the lower portio...
On the road to Desert Queen Mine, Joshua Tree NP
San Jacinto as seen from Queen Valley. Photo by Bl...