Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New |
|
Description Located north of the Queen Valley Road, somewhat midway between Jumbo Rocks and Sheep Pass CG, is this fairly accessible area with a remote and somewhat wild feel. Depending upon your motivation or proclivity you might climb close to the car, or venture out into one of the Park's lesser-visited areas and possibly discover some relics from the area's rich mining past. This is an area to visit if seeking solitude and quality engaging routes, of which there are many. Those seeking cracks will be rewarded with such gems as Tiers For Fears (5.10b), The Golddigger (5.10c), Petrodynamics (5.10d), Silverado (5.11b) and Nerve Storm (5.11c). Face climbing enthusiasts will want to do Once In A Lifetime (5.7), Get The Balance Right (5.10a) Times Of Holyness (5.11c), I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Cosmic Trigger (5.12d). Getting There Driving east from Sheep Pass CG, there is a right turn towards the signed Geology Tour Road; more or less directly across from this is the dirt road to the Desert Queen Mine area. Drive the dirt road, staying right when necessary, to a parking area one and a quarter miles from the paved Queen Valley Road. The trail to the various rocks lies at the east end of the parking area and winds downhill to the base of a large hillside with several sealed mineshafts. Climbing back up to a large plateau behind the mineshafts leads to a rough landscape of valleys and hills with scattered rock formations. Scattered throughout this landscape are many enticing routes. Plan on thirty to forty-five minutes to Fraggle Rock, the furthest crag from the parking area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Desert Queen Mine:
Large and In Charge 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Mother Lode Wall
Mother Lode 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mother Lode Wall
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fraggle Rock
Tiers for Fears 5.10d R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Fraggle Rock
Hollowed Ground 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Queen Crimson Dome
Nerve Storm 5.12- PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Queen Crimson Dome
Sensory Deprivation 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Fraggle Rock
I Have The Touch 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Fraggle Rock
Featured Route For Desert Queen Mine
Desert Profit 5.11d CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Queen Crimson Dome
Two difficult slab / face cruxes are found on this climb. The first crux comes after the second bolt and the second crux is encountered between the 5th and 6th bolts on the rounded arete. A moderate runout exists between the 7th and 8th bolts. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
|