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Secret Canyon
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Desert Mule 

Desert Mule 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Burcham, Seth Dyer
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 13, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: the route is visible on the approach

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Phallic spire north of trail as you approach Secret Canyon. P1: 5.10 OW, P2: has 3 distinct cruxes: 5.11OW off the belay, 5.11fingers midway and then 5.11bouldery move to summit cap.


hike past the spire and look for a climber trail heading up the ridge thru the manzanita. The route is visible on approach (on the west face). Just before you get there you pass a steep thin to wide 3pitch crack on the main wall: "Pink Wiggler"


at least 2 #4Camalots, a #5(new) and a #5(old)or new #6/ also recommend dbls of blue TCU and single of every thing else. plus 2 bolts on the second pitch. rap twice with a 60m rope.

Photos of Desert Mule Slideshow Add Photo
 on P2
on P2
Mike almost the P1 crux
Mike almost the P1 crux
awkward start on P2
awkward start on P2
awkward finish of P1
awkward finish of P1
bouldery finish
bouldery finish
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