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An amazing nearby peak with incredulous seclusion in light of its proximity to Salt Lake Valley. The North and North West Faces are comprised of quartzite bands which has been notorious for its looseness. For probably this reason, no records of any ascents of this magnificent face have been forthcoming. Never crowded. Probably better known for the ski descent of the great couloir that slashes down the skiers right of the north face.
Drive past the rock climbs in South Willow Canyon and to the end of the dirt road where many fine camping sites exist and seem always available. Hike the trail to Mill Fork to the top of the couloir. This actually provides the best access to the regular hiking route to the peak as well as the easiest approach to Tissue Of Invention, a route on the North-Northwest Face.
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Tissue Of Invention, NE Face 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 UT : Stansbury Mountains : Deseret Peak
Since skiing the great couloir of the NE Face years ago with the late great Dave Anderson, I wondered why no climbing had been done on this north face. He and I scoped the line then. I went with my wife Franziska in June of 2007 to attempt the route. It became obvious to us why this face had been ignored until now. We climbed some pitches and did some cleaning, but it was very unstable and due to the dangerous nature, we retreated. I decided soloing the route would be much safer, albeit, much mo...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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