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Deseret Moon 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 4,815
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2003
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Deseret Moon

Description 

Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.

The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but easy cracks to the left and then traverses over to the ledge just above the direct start. From there you head up a finger crack and flake to a rest before embarking on the gorgeous perfect hands splitter to the anchors.

Two ropes to rap.


Protection 

Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot + several #2 Camalots. Either a #4 Camalot or a bunch of TCU's depending on the start you take.



Photos of Deseret Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Sean heading up to the perfect hand splitter that finishes off Deseret Moon.
Sean heading up to the perfect hand splitter that ...
Sean starting up the stemming section of Deseret Moon.
Sean starting up the stemming section of Deseret M...
The beautiful, well deserved, splitter hand crack.
The beautiful, well deserved, splitter hand crack.
Comfortably delineating the crux.
Comfortably delineating the crux.
A rock climber
A rock climber
Sean at the crux of Deseret Moon.
Sean at the crux of Deseret Moon.
Karsten pulling crux of deseret moon.  Lots of small gear below.
Karsten pulling crux of deseret moon. Lots of sma...
Looking down from the top of Deseret Moon.
Looking down from the top of Deseret Moon.
Comments on Deseret Moon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 1, 2003

This is called Desseret Moon. The direct start is 5.11+, nuts useful. The indirect start is not 5.11- R as stated in the guide... more like 5.8 loose.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 27, 2006

I'm not sure if this is where the name comes from, but my kids were playing "Where in the USA is Carmen, San Diego" and there was a question about Deseret and that being the original name proposed for the state of Utah. Is that the source of the name?

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2006

The direct start is hard and solid at the 5.11+ grade. Take many small aliens if leading the direct start. The indirect start is easy and loose, and detracts from the quality rating.

By misterclimberman
Apr 17, 2006

well the entire route is 5.11- from the other start, and the start is r rated. so as far as 5.11-r, that would be correct. the whole route is sure as hell not 5.8, so its not 5.8r. the more proper way of describing it, i suppose, would be to say that it is 5.11- with a 5.8r start. there ya go a.c.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 19, 2006

Deseret was the name of a short-lived attempted state that the Mormons established for a couple years circa 1849-50.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2007

The start felt .11b/c like to me but that was probably because I put in a ton of gear. I would have to agree with an .11- grade. The fun part comes up higher with the spectacular handcrack that goes on forever.

By Tony Yao
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2007

Loved the route!!! Awesome stemming crux down low. Beautiful perfect hands up high. Superb!

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 28, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Amazing and diverse pitch. The crux down low is thin and technical, enough to warrant the "+" IMO.

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 30, 2007

I had a friend take a 30' ground fall on to his back from the 11+ start when three cams ripped. They were most likey placed poorly, but be warned, a big fall onto small gear is a bad idea.

By Brian Weinstein
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Was your friend ok? You can see the amount of falls taken and gear rippage from the chips in the wingate. The key here is backing up your small pieces and stringing runner(s) appropriately.

By Bob Rotert
Mar 2, 2009

Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even larger cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek.

By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

On TR I considered the direct start not really difficult, but on lead the thin pro might be rather awful.

By Connor.Donahue
From: Portland OR
Mar 14, 2010

Take care with the indirect start to the left. About thirty feet up, I knocked a big rock (25 lbs) loose with my foot, and narrowly missed my belayer. A helmet is a very good idea. The indirect start isn't hard, but it sure is chossy! Slings helped with rope drag in this section.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2010

This is possible to do with a single 70m rope. Granted, not all 70's are the same '70 meters' due to variations in manufacturing, cutting off the ends, etc... Just sharing my experience. Additionally, calling the direct start stemming (both here and in the Bloom guide) is somewhat misleading. Let's be honest, you chimney up to the roof and pull it on finger locks.

By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Sep 29, 2010

I blew a cam out of the right flake (mine break was the 2nd one)....good route - actually - my favorite from my shortish trip to the creek. (Oh and my next cam caught thankfully)

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2011

Our 70 m was about 15 feet short from reaching the ground, even fully stretched (brand new Mammut Climax 9.6mm x 70m). Fortunately had another rope handy.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

you might want to send it in to mammut. i've climbed this several times with different 70's and have always had enough rope.

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Also short with Maxim 70m...

Sterling 70 works...barely

By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Oct 21, 2013

A #3 ball nut in the solid crack on the left wall of the flare is about the best protection for the crux.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 22, 2013

very, very short with Maxim 70m

By Ryan Z
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I led the direct start and thought 11+ was accurate. It was nice to have 2 green C3's for the chimney roof thing. 70m did not reach, not a Blue Water nor a Mammut. The downclimb from where a 70m leaves you is pretty easy; 5.8ish. There is nothing R-Rated about the direct start. Just place good gear.