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BETA PHOTO: The ramp that begins on the east and leads to the ...
The ramp is narrow initially, but the climbing is always easy. From the south side to the west side, you are walking on a wide ledge. Crux is the final move to the top which is about 5.6.
Begin on the east side of the Thumb just right of the school slabs. Climb 15 feet to a ramp/ledge system that circles left halfway around the Thumb to the west side. You may want to break the ledge up into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag. From the wide ledge on the west with a two-bolt anchor, follow the right side of a gully to the top.
Rap 100 feet from the slings and rap rings on the west side of the top.
There are several anchors along the way that can be clipped. Otherwise medium gear up to #3 BD C4. Trad anchor or stance on top.
BETA PHOTO: The P2 gully leading to the summit of The Thumb.
By Dom R
From: Saranac Lake, NY
Jun 16, 2014
I don't know if I'd call this 5.4. The guidebook has it listed as 5.2, and that feels pretty accurate to me. The final move to the top is a pull on a huge, RRG-sized jug that is protected by a perfect cam at your face, super easy movement. Despite what I've said about the grade, this route is definitely worth running up really fast if you're in the area or if you are a new leader. Great opportunities for passive pro on easy terrain. Topping out on the summit is really nice too, great views. As for a descending, we rapped off of the block slung by a huge cord, seemed safer than the tenuous downclimb to some of the surrounding bolted anchors. Note: the rap anchors are on the left side of the tower from where you top out, you kind of have to explore for a second to find them.