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Descent from Keiners
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By Gabriel Bromley
From Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2014
Hey,

Our group is thinking of doing Keiner's route in about a week. Our plan is to bivy below the route and then head for the summit. We would like to stash our bivy gear, so is there a descent that will spit us out back down near Chasm Lake to grab our stuff? Also, what are the potential bail options from on the route? I have heard that from the top of lamb's slide, if you need to bail, to take the loft instead of rapping. Is that accurate?

Any beta would be appreciated.


Thanks!

Gabe

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2014
Bocan
FYI Marmots will eat everything you own.


Leaving yet?? Chomp chomp.
Leaving yet?? Chomp chomp.

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By Gabriel Bromley
From Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2014
Scott,

You recommend NOT stashing our stuff and instead climb the route with it/ dont bivy at all?


Gabe

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2014
Bocan
Gabriel Bromley wrote:
Scott, You recommend NOT stashing our stuff and instead climb the route with it/ dont bivy at all? Gabe


Well you CAN stash your stuff, but be prepared to do some work to protect it. They'll eat boots, straps, tents, whatever. On the backside of long's (spearhead) we flipped our packs upside down and hung them over small cliffs which seemed to help. On the way up we watched marmot ravage another groups bivy.

Sometimes you have to indirectly throw rocks at the f*ckers while you are sitting next to your pack. They don't care.

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By GregMiller
From Louisville, CO
Aug 20, 2014
From the summit, if you head down the Cables (North Face) Route, the bottom of the rap puts you at Chasm View, which IIRC has a good rappel back down to the base, which is roughly where your gear would be stashed. Anyone else care to confirm?

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By Xam
From Boulder, Co
Aug 20, 2014
If you need to get to Chasm Lake from the North Face rappels, generally one takes the Camel gully decent or the 'sidewalk' decent referred to at Longs Peak via Kor's Door -> Finish Kiener's Route beta questions. If you decide to rap from Chasm View, I believe you are looking at 6 double rope raps (3 on chasm view and 3 on the crack of delight IIRC) and a long traverse across Broadway.

Edit: I looked it up...it is 3 double rope raps and a single rope rap from the crack of delight.

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Aug 20, 2014
Eiger summit
Xam wrote:
If you need to get to Chasm Lake from the North Face rappels, generally one takes the Camel gully decent or the 'sidewalk' decent referred to at Longs Peak via Kor's Door -> Finish Kiener's Route beta questions.


This is the way to go. I did the Camel gully descent back to my bivy gear at night and it wasn't too bad. I stashed my pack under a boulder and had no problems with critters. I didn't have any food in the pack.

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