Derrydale Cliff Rock Climbing
Saw this beautiful creature while exploring new ro...
Long, sandstone cliff-band that starts immediately above Hwy-33 and runs a few hundred yards north west. The cliff is 60-100 feet tall and consists of areas of bullet-proof sandstone (and other areas of choss).
This beautiful cliff-band looms large over Hwy-33 and absolutely screams to be climbed. Clearly, there has been activity going back at least 20 years.
If you have any information about what routes were established, about who did these first ascents and when, please post this information here.
There is clear evidence of recent and past climbing attempts; although, nothing is currently known about actual routes. PLEASE POST INFORMATION HERE.
Two more hard routes have been added to the left of "Exilis." Both FAs were by Matt Greco. The routes are 5.11 (left-hand route) and 5.12. They are both located in Area A
Roadside Crag is located on the right-hand side of the road, when heading north and approximately 1 mile beyond the obvious turnout for the Fortress. The crag can also be found by driving to the Potrero Creek trailhead and then continuing up the Highway for approximately 1/2 mile. There is a small turnout located immediately below the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Hwy 33/Ojai area.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Derrydale Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Derrydale Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Derrydale Cliff:
Featured Route For Derrydale Cliff
Grand Old Pachyderm 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Derrydale Cliff
Things are not as they seem...the steepest part of this route is surprisingly easy. The slabby upper reaches are surprisingly hard. All in all a fun addition to Derrydale. The route follows steep face climbing on positive edges past the first two bolts--amazingly, solid edges appear wherever they are needed. Just below the third bolt, the angle drops back. From here, delicate slab climbing leads past two more bolts. There is a clear crux encounter just above the fourth bolt. If you escape...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Matthew Fienup climbing at Derrydale Cliff, Octobe...
My wife nearly put her hand down on this little cr...
BETA PHOTO: Area "B" This part of the cliff is home ...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Elephant in the Room (yellow) and M...
BETA PHOTO: Area "A" This part of the cliff is appro...
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Roadside Crag, on Hwy-33 above Ojai. The...
BETA PHOTO: Derrydale Cliff: Red - Exilis Dihedral (5.9) Orang...
Belaying from a narrow ledge, the "Elephant W...
Derry Dale Bridge, not far from Derrydale Cliff.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008
Stuart Ruckman bolted a line, or two, but never climbed them. These are a way up from the road. They are rumored to be hard, and Stuart could climb a little bit.
Next to the road there is a bolt or two. I could never find out any info on this and never felt it was worth too much attention. Pretty, yes, but also pretty thin on suspect rock. But if I had lived a little closer it would have been worth a bit more effort...
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 31, 2011
Matt Greco equipped and led both of the routes that Stuart Ruckman explored on the left side side of the wall. Matt reports that the one line went at 5.11 while the other is 5.12.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 22, 2012
Those don't sound like Stuart's routes, since he said hard and could climb 5.12 in his sleep or, as one person put it, "you could lock him in a closet for six months and he'd still onsight 12c". But I don't know how invested he was either. He didn't sound very psyched. Did Matt say if these were good? Might be worth doing sometime.
Also, Matt, have you found any info about the steep bolted line opposite side and just before the Black Wall? Probably 10+/11-. Very chossy but super fun. My guess is that it's a Mike Gould route but I don't remember why. Maybe it has my hangers on it.