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 ADVANCED
Derrydale Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Elephant in the Room T,S 
Exilis Dihedral T,S 
Grand Old Pachyderm S 
Mammoth Poaching S 
Mowgli Walk S 

Derrydale Cliff  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 34.583, -119.2613 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,725
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 29, 2008
Forecast:
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Saw this beautiful creature while exploring new ro...

Description 

Long, sandstone cliff-band that starts immediately above Hwy-33 and runs a few hundred yards north west. The cliff is 60-100 feet tall and consists of areas of bullet-proof sandstone (and other areas of choss).

This beautiful cliff-band looms large over Hwy-33 and absolutely screams to be climbed. Clearly, there has been activity going back at least 20 years.

If you have any information about what routes were established, about who did these first ascents and when, please post this information here.

There is clear evidence of recent and past climbing attempts; although, nothing is currently known about actual routes. PLEASE POST INFORMATION HERE.

Two more hard routes have been added to the left of "Exilis." Both FAs were by Matt Greco. The routes are 5.11 (left-hand route) and 5.12. They are both located in Area A

Geology 

Local Geology: "Derrydale Phase" of Matilija Sandstone

Getting There 

Roadside Crag is located on the right-hand side of the road, when heading north and approximately 1 mile beyond the obvious turnout for the Fortress. The crag can also be found by driving to the Potrero Creek trailhead and then continuing up the Highway for approximately 1/2 mile. There is a small turnout located immediately below the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Derrydale Cliff:
Exilis Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 75'   
Elephant in the Room   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 130'   
Mammoth Poaching   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Derrydale Cliff

Featured Route For Derrydale Cliff
Topo for Exilis Dihedral (5.9) at Derrydale Crag.

Exilis Dihedral 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Derrydale Cliff
Exilis Dihedral climbs the most striking feature on the cliff--a large, left-facing dihedral in the center of the formation.Delicate slab climbing past three bolts (crux) leads to the dihedral. Laybacking and stemming deposits you at the top of the dihedral on a large ledge. A few easy fifth-class moves take you over the final bulge to a rap anchor on a spacious ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Derrydale Cliff
Photos of Derrydale Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Matthew Fienup climbing at Derrydale Cliff, Octobe...
Matthew Fienup climbing at Derrydale Cliff, Octobe...
My wife nearly put her hand down on this little cr...
My wife nearly put her hand down on this little cr...
Area "B" This part of the cliff is home ...
BETA PHOTO: Area "B" This part of the cliff is home ...
Route topo for Elephant in the Room (yellow) and M...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Elephant in the Room (yellow) and M...
Area "A" This part of the cliff is appro...
BETA PHOTO: Area "A" This part of the cliff is appro...
Photo of Roadside Crag, on Hwy-33 above Ojai.  The...
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Roadside Crag, on Hwy-33 above Ojai. The...
Derrydale Cliff: Red - Exilis Dihedral (5.9) Orang...
BETA PHOTO: Derrydale Cliff: Red - Exilis Dihedral (5.9) Orang...
Belaying from a narrow ledge, the "Elephant W...
Belaying from a narrow ledge, the "Elephant W...
Derry Dale Bridge, not far from Derrydale Cliff.
Derry Dale Bridge, not far from Derrydale Cliff.

Comments on Derrydale Cliff Add Comment
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008
Stuart Ruckman bolted a line, or two, but never climbed them. These are a way up from the road. They are rumored to be hard, and Stuart could climb a little bit.

Next to the road there is a bolt or two. I could never find out any info on this and never felt it was worth too much attention. Pretty, yes, but also pretty thin on suspect rock. But if I had lived a little closer it would have been worth a bit more effort...
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 31, 2011
Matt Greco equipped and led both of the routes that Stuart Ruckman explored on the left side side of the wall. Matt reports that the one line went at 5.11 while the other is 5.12.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 22, 2012
Those don't sound like Stuart's routes, since he said hard and could climb 5.12 in his sleep or, as one person put it, "you could lock him in a closet for six months and he'd still onsight 12c". But I don't know how invested he was either. He didn't sound very psyched. Did Matt say if these were good? Might be worth doing sometime.

Also, Matt, have you found any info about the steep bolted line opposite side and just before the Black Wall? Probably 10+/11-. Very chossy but super fun. My guess is that it's a Mike Gould route but I don't remember why. Maybe it has my hangers on it.