Derek Smalls' Crack
||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Existing route.. No idea who climbed it first.|
|Season: ||All year but you wanna be in the direct sun in the dead of winter.|
|Page Views: ||452|
|Submitted By: ||Burt Lindquist on Sep 18, 2012|
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This crack is short but fierce.
30 feet of straight in, sustained, slightly over hung, and wide finger crack that's too narrow to hand jam unless you have adolescent sized paws. There is a slight jog in the crack at mid-height that gives up a nice narrow horizontal hold above which the crux is to be found where the crack is absolutely parallel and below which there is some irregularity affording OK fingers locks and stacks. There is very little for the feet all along the fissure and the climber is forced to toe jam aggressively or make wide stems. At the top it eases off where the crack widens around a block or two and relinquishes a layback move. Burly lead!
The small tower that is situated above and to the left of "Coatimundi Crack" on Bill's Buttress and makes an excellent alternate finish to any of the routes in this vicinty. Or... one could descend from above at the finish area above "Coatimudi Crack" and climb this great fissure on it's own from the ledge system at 3\4 height on this buttress.
Cams all the way from knuckle size BD Camelot #.75 up to #3. You can place excellent cams at face level the whole way.
Nov 14, 2012
Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 20, 2012