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 ADVANCED
Bauhaus Wall
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Der Squeal 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Hassan Saab
Page Views: 328
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 19, 2001
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Description 

If not for the hanging death block [now removed] which you must dyno to on this route, it would certainly get another star. The block is a real fucker -- wedged in far enough that it's nearly impossible to pry out yet hollow, cracked on all sides and a potential time-bomb.

This is the very rightmost route on Bauhaus Wall and climbs the very overhanging panel of white rock right of Der Stihl. This bottom bit is powerful and sustained on good holds with nice pockets, which soon run out, depositing you on a crimpy sequence below the block. Suck it up and fire for the block, kneebar behind the block, clip off the block -- love the block!

A tricky crux above the roof/block leads to a short, flakey headwall and the anchors.


Protection 

10-14 quickdraws.



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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

The block has been removed. However, the holds over the roof have broken, making the route a bit harder.