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 ADVANCED
Balanced Rock Wall
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12 5.9 dihedral 
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22 5.8 face climb 
AAHRG 
Basswood Chimney 
Bifurcation 
Der Glotz 
False Dilemma 
Fear and Trembling 
Grandma's Staircase 
Invitation 
Invitation Direct 
Moondust  
Morning After 
Mr. Neutron 
New Box 
Night Before 
R.S.V.P. 
Red Pulpit 
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Sunken Pillar 
Switch Cover Crack 
Watermarks 
Watermarks Direct 
Watermarks Left Side 

Der Glotz 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 984
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 28, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall

Description 

Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here there are 2-3 side-pull holds. Pull and lean right, and move up past zig-zag overhangs to easier terrain.

To set up the Top Rope for this climb your anchor should be directly below the Balanced Rock.


Protection 

Top Rope



Photos of Der Glotz Slideshow Add Photo
Closer look at Der Glotz.
BETA PHOTO: Closer look at Der Glotz.
Mark on a variation of Der Glotz. Start as per usual for Der Glotz, then move to the right corner of Sunken Pillar without using the crack.
Mark on a variation of Der Glotz. Start as per usu...
Comments on Der Glotz Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 1, 2002

Der Glotz is on the far left side of the picture above. It starts out on the right-leaning diagonal ledge.

By Pete Arndt
Dec 19, 2003

BETA OVERLOAD

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 24, 2003

I always thought that there is no such thing as BETA OVERLOAD.

By rich bechler
Jan 29, 2004

A fairly leadablr route with small rps etc. etc.

By Tom Petaitis
Mar 18, 2004

I climbed 'Der Glotz' with the winter-weiry locals on a warm Feb 29, 2003 not expecting much other than a warm-up for Morning After(10d)/Morning Before(11d) lines (not sure what is what over there since all the tape is gone) and then Moondust(11b), and ended up amazed by how fun and crazy the moves get! Kudos to the routesetter. Best 5.9 I've ever been on anywhere (outdoors, that is)!

Next best climb in the Balanced Rock area, in my opinion, is the unlisted 15 foot block face above the ledge that Moondust finishes on. Roughly a 5.10c/d, bring your long arms.

By Josh Ferris
Oct 31, 2005

Climbed it this weekend. After climbing through the morning on Saturday I was too burnt to nail the crux (yep, a little outa shape). Went back Sunday morning and nailed it on my second attempt. Awesome view from the top this time of year too (better of course after climbing then when setting up an anchor...). Haven't been climbing that long and this was a good confidence booster.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This climb had a great variety of moves and a very consistent grade all the way through... until the very last parts of the top. The grade sort of fades out then and then it's a romp up to the anchors. Cool hand/footwork towards the bottom. I had way more fun on this climb than on Watermarks.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Burt's gear beta: "all three ballnuts!"

By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

No where near bold enough to go ground-up like Rhoads, I lead this a couple weekends ago after extensive top-rope practice. Ball nuts make it still sketchy, but definitely not X-rated, in my opinion. That said, even will full sets of C3's and brassies, if you do not get some very specific ball nut placements, this is a solo. On my first lead attempt, I was an idiot and decided to go for it even though it was wet, and I didn't have the right ball nut on me. I decked from pulling the first little roof 15-20 feet up, though a purple C3 placement (which ripped) arrested my fall enough that I was totally unharmed. A couple weeks later, I went back, and got a ball nut in the same area, and was able to bounce on it repeatedly will my full body weight plus shock-loading on the placement, and it held. Still wouldn't want to take a lead fall on to it though.