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Depth Charge 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Matt Fanning, 2007
Page Views: 2,658
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Blanco making the big reach out to the flake under...

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  • Description 

    This is the line to do if you come to this area! Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way. Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof. Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof. Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux). Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts.

    Location 

    From the approach trail, head right. Pass a beautiful white blunt arete (Submarine, 5.12a) and look for the tall climb with massive roofs. The start is just behind a boulder and large tree.

    Protection 

    9 Fixed draws, shuts.


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    By BrianWS
    Sep 6, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    CONDITION REPORT 
    I have tightened the nut and hanger on the 2nd roof bolt. It should be good for a while now.

    If climbing this route, please try to inspect and tighten the nut/hanger before entering the traverse.

    If the nut works loose, a fall on this bolt will result in further deformation of the bolt. Again, please be a good steward and make sure the nut and hangar are tight before exiting the roof.
    By Brad Leneis
    May 30, 2016
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Probably best to avoid extending the first perma-draw above the roof -- doing so makes it easier to clip, but if you fall the dogbone gets looaded over a sharp lip. I pulled a spectra dogbone off that was nearly sliced through. If you do extend it, best to use a draw with a nylon dogbone.

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