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Deprived Child 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Whalen, Darrell Jordan - 1986
Page Views: 929
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Bolts are about a foot right of the rope. Direct s...

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Description 

A really nice line for the (slightly sandbagged) grade, with a spicy alternate start.

Move up and left on the slab to a gap in the overlap above. Though it's fairly easy climbing, this start is runout with no pro until you reach a bolt below the overlap maybe 30' up. Continue up on good friction following the bolted line to the top.

Direct start (5.10a): Climb left of the regular start to join the route just below the first bolt. No protection.


Location 

Starts about 15' right of All I Wanted was a Pepsi.


Protection 

Mixed; five bolts supplemented by a light rack. Bolted anchors at the top.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 7, 2008

Fun lead, very much worth doing.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Not really PG13. Start from the flake, placing gear under the flake in the cracks. Takes C3's nicely. Probably a little harder than 5.6 only using the flake.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 30, 2011

Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold.

By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Oct 5, 2011

The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder.

By Will Rynes
From: Grovetown, GA
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fun little route, really straight forward with no shortage of hands or feet the whole way. The direct start was pretty cool with a highstep mantle move down low and nice sloper above that.

By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

Fun lead... 1st bolt was high off the deck, the rest were pretty spaced out (which made things more fun). Bomber #1 camalot under the flake protects between bolt 1 and 2. Some of the moves up high are pretty spicy!

By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Jan 1, 2014

I had an epiphany on the direct start. It's a 10b move on a cold high friction day wearing Miura's. It's an 11a move on a sunny greasy friction day wearing Mytho's.