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A Wing and a Prayer S,TR 
All I Wanted was a Pepsi T 
Battle of the Bulge S 
By Gully T,S 
Deprived Child T,S 
Direct Shock S 
Dust Bowl Daze T 
Frictionary T,S 
Kemoslabee T,S 
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Winter Solstice T 

Deprived Child 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Whalen, Darrell Jordan - 1986
Page Views: 1,791
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolts are about a foot right of the rope. Direct s...

Description 

A really nice line for the (slightly sandbagged) grade, with a spicy alternate start.

Move up and left on the slab to a gap in the overlap above. Though it's fairly easy climbing, this start is runout with no pro until you reach a bolt below the overlap maybe 30' up. Continue up on good friction following the bolted line to the top.

Direct start (5.10a): Climb left of the regular start to join the route just below the first bolt. No protection.

Location 

Starts about 15' right of All I Wanted was a Pepsi.

Protection 

Mixed; five bolts supplemented by a light rack. Bolted anchors at the top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 10, 2016
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 2, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
Harrison - thanks for the effort and the update. SCC has donated some hardware that will be used to replace a number of the anchor and protection bolts at Currahee in the near future.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 7, 2008

Fun lead, very much worth doing.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not really PG13. Start from the flake, placing gear under the flake in the cracks. Takes C3's nicely. Probably a little harder than 5.6 only using the flake.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 30, 2011

Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold.
By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Oct 5, 2011

The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder.
By Will Rynes
From: Grovetown, GA
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun little route, really straight forward with no shortage of hands or feet the whole way. The direct start was pretty cool with a highstep mantle move down low and nice sloper above that.
By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Fun lead... 1st bolt was high off the deck, the rest were pretty spaced out (which made things more fun). Bomber #1 camalot under the flake protects between bolt 1 and 2. Some of the moves up high are pretty spicy!
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Jan 1, 2014

I had an epiphany on the direct start. It's a 10b move on a cold high friction day wearing Miura's. It's an 11a move on a sunny greasy friction day wearing Mytho's.
By Will Carney
From: Tallulah Falls, GA
Aug 28, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I agree with O'Neal. The direct move is all about the friction. This is a great route for first timers as it is easily top roped, is low difficulty, and has the reward of topping out with a beautiful view. If you're protecting in the flake, you're in wrong spot. You should be in a spot where you're wondering how you're going to get off the ground at all. And it's good stretch of slab to the first bolt.
By Harrison Laird
Mar 8, 2016

Last time I was at the slab wall I noticed the right bolt on the anchors was a bit loose and both of the quick links were rusted. I brought some tools with me today intending to just tighten down the bolt then pry off the old quick links and replace them but soon discovered the bolt was in pretty bad shape. As I began tightening, the bolt just started coming out even further and it was clear that it had rusted significantly. After a few turns the whole thing came out and the rusted sleeve was visible in the hole.

Currently the route only has the one bolt left for anchors and it still appears solid (though the surface rust does look a lot like the one I pulled out so best to use with caution). Anyone who has the tools could probably make short work of it but I had to leave it.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 10, 2016

Rap anchors have been replaced. Thanks to the SCC for the hardware.

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