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Escape Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Awakening S 
Body Bag S 
Dead on Arrival S 
Denied S 
Inside Information S 
Jug for Joy S 
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 
Monkey Meet S 
Motherload S 
No Escaping Death S 
Presidents Day S 
Rock Requiem S 
Steel Graffiti S 
Twist and Shout S 

Denied 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: 1 Rock Requiem 5.11c 2 Presidents Day 5.10b 3 No E...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start to the left of a ledge and haul on huge pockets to the first bolt. More pockets and edges to the second bolt, then it gets briefly thinner without pockets to the third. Big pockets to the fourth bolt and then the angle eases considerably to less than vertical through the fifth bolt and then the chains.

Important safety tip: Don't fall at the fifth bolt (although if you made it that far, you'd really have to be asleep to manage a fall).

If the climbing through the first four bolts were duplicated above this would be as good as Monkey Meet.

Location 

Located on an indentation on the right side of the main Escape Buttress wall. This is the 8th route from the left on the main wall, or, alternatively, 4th from the right.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains.


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By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This would be an easy onsight if you're comfortable with climbing on the rest of the routes on Escape Buttress. The crux is going above the 2nd bolt, just like all Escape routes. I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Graffiti, the 10b to the right of Twist and Shout.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007

What Walt is trying to say is...he saw me onsight it so it can't be very hard. I certainly had more trouble with Steel Graffiti, but Denied is 10c in the Ruckman guide so that's what I put it in as.
By Alec
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably more like 5.10a, when compared to Steel Graffiti anyway. It's pretty run out after the overhanging bit but not at all steep. Be careful.
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Easy onsight for a 10c. Felt definitely easier than a 10c though like maybe a 10a/b. Enough pockets to get through the 4 bolts then it gets easier with a long runout to the 5th bolt (don't slip and fall from here!) and then a moderate runout to the chains. Bomber pockets and the flake is solid. Nothing really special BUT if this were in Rock Canyon, climbers would be giving it 4 star ratings.