Denied 5.10c
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Description Start to the left of a ledge and haul on huge pockets to the first bolt. More pockets and edges to the second bolt, then it gets briefly thinner without pockets to the third. Big pockets to the fourth bolt and then the angle eases considerably to less than vertical through the fifth bolt and then the chains.
Important safety tip: Don't fall at the fifth bolt (although if you made it that far, you'd really have to be asleep to manage a fall).
If the climbing through the first four bolts were duplicated above this would be as good as Monkey Meet.
Location Located on an indentation on the right side of the main Escape Buttress wall. This is the 8th route from the left on the main wall, or, alternatively, 4th from the right.
Protection 5 bolts to chains.
Lewis clipping the 2nd bolt on Denied.
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Lewis making his way up Denied after clipping the ...
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Lewis nearing the top of Denied, great views of th...
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Mark Lewis TR'ing Denied....Why lead it if you can...
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By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| This would be an easy onsight if you're comfortable with climbing on the rest of the routes on Escape Buttress. The crux is going above the 2nd bolt, just like all Escape routes. I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Graffiti, the 10b to the right of Twist and Shout. |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007
| What Walt is trying to say is...he saw me onsight it so it can't be very hard. I certainly had more trouble with Steel Graffiti, but Denied is 10c in the Ruckman guide so that's what I put it in as. |
By Alec
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.10-
| Probably more like 5.10a, when compared to Steel Graffiti anyway. It's pretty run out after the overhanging bit but not at all steep. Be careful. |
By Bad Sock Puppet
From: Utah
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Easy onsight for a 10c. Felt definitely easier than a 10c though like maybe a 10a/b. Enough pockets to get through the 4 bolts then it gets easier with a long runout to the 5th bolt (don't slip and fall from here!) and then a moderate runout to the chains. Bomber pockets and the flake is solid. Nothing really special BUT if this were in Rock Canyon, climbers would be giving it 4 star ratings. |
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