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Denali National Park

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Peak 11,300 
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Scott Peak 

Denali National Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 63.0649, -151.17191 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 707,127
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: R Squared on Jan 18, 2007
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Dried, cracked, and painful fingers after a month ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Denali National Park is home to the tallest mountain in North America. Denali stands tall at 20,320 feet. Denali NP is also home to the Alaska Range and some of the most beautiful and remote walls in the world.

Getting There 

Drive north from Anchorage for 240 miles or south from Fairbanks for 125 miles. You can fly into Denali NP with certain aviation companies.

Climbing Season



Weather station 52.0 miles from here

65 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',14],['5.9',5],['5.10',15],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Denali National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Denali National Park:
Japanese Couloir   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 3000'   Ruth Gorge : Mt. Barrill
South East Ridge   WI2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3600'   Mt. Francis
Messner Couloir   AI2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5000'   Denali
The West Rib   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 9200'   Denali
NE Ridge   Easy Snow     Snow, Alpine, 2700'   Kahiltna Dome
West Buttress   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 12500'   Denali
Ham & Eggs   WI4 M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'   Ruth Gorge : Moose's Tooth
Shaken not Stirred   WI5 M5 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 3000'   Ruth Gorge : Moose's Tooth
The Harvard Route   WI3 M6 C1 Steep Snow     Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 30 pitches, 4000'   Ruth Gorge : Mt. Huntington
South West Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4100'   Peak 11,300
Cassin Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4     Ice, Alpine, Grade V   Denali
The Lost Marsupial   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1300'   Little Switzerland : The Throne
South Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1300'   Little Switzerland : Middle Troll
The Moonflower Buttress (Bibler/Klewin)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M6 A2 Steep Snow     Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 6000'   Mt Hunter
Goldfinger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 2000'   Ruth Gorge : The Stump
West Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'   Little Switzerland : The Plunger
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Denali National Park

Featured Route For Denali National Park
Rock Climbing Photo: The NE face of Scott Peak.

Northeast Face WI1 Steep Snow  All Locations : Denali National Park : Scott Peak
The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Denali National Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kahiltna Peaks with Foraker in the distance, f...
The Kahiltna Peaks with Foraker in the distance, f...
Rock Climbing Photo: JB on upper snowfield to gain the Nettle-Quirk Cou...
JB on upper snowfield to gain the Nettle-Quirk Cou...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the west ridge of Mt. Hunter. This was tak...
View of the west ridge of Mt. Hunter. This was tak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Denali National Park, Sultana Pk. (aka Mt. Foraker...
Denali National Park, Sultana Pk. (aka Mt. Foraker...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the Nettle - Quirk Couloir Mt. Huntington...
Starting the Nettle - Quirk Couloir Mt. Huntington...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Burton on the Harvard route west face Mt Hunt...
Jeff Burton on the Harvard route west face Mt Hunt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Denali National Park
Denali National Park
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Burton, G. Child & M. Kennedy waiting for a rid...
J. Burton, G. Child & M. Kennedy waiting for a rid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Long on the East Buttress of the Citadel (V 5...
Alan Long on the East Buttress of the Citadel (V 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Denali, as seen from the Kahiltna Baseca...
A view of Denali, as seen from the Kahiltna Baseca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Burton upper part of The Harvard route on Mt ...
Jeff Burton upper part of The Harvard route on Mt ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Denali from Stony Dome.
Denali from Stony Dome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Carson leading the crux on the FA of the Wyom...
BETA PHOTO: Andy Carson leading the crux on the FA of the Wyom...
Rock Climbing Photo: TAT plane, note the 1954.  If only they made thing...
TAT plane, note the 1954. If only they made thing...
Rock Climbing Photo: KIA - Kahiltna International Airport
KIA - Kahiltna International Airport
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp for Denali
Camp for Denali
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic view of the Range from Talkeetna
Panoramic view of the Range from Talkeetna
Rock Climbing Photo: The TAT "Otter"
The TAT "Otter"
Rock Climbing Photo: The AMS Fork off of the main Eldridge glacier in m...
BETA PHOTO: The AMS Fork off of the main Eldridge glacier in m...
Rock Climbing Photo: please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
BETA PHOTO: please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
Rock Climbing Photo: traveling in style after the climb, beautiful down...
traveling in style after the climb, beautiful down...
Rock Climbing Photo: Denali glowing at around 10pm.
Denali glowing at around 10pm.

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