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 ADVANCED
Perfect Crimb Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Birding S 
Crank-n-Go-Go S 
Demystification S 
Don't Mean Nothin' T 
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 
Gear Fear T,S 
Hateful Pleasures T,S 
Lacuna S 
One Hand Jam S 
Perfect Crimb, The S 
Pulldown Menu S 
Technical Difficulties S 
Vice Squad S 
Unsorted Routes:

Demystification 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Liz Hajek, 2002
Page Views: 1,416
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Best slab to be found at Red Wing. Super good rock quality with awesome balancy moves. Crux is right in the middle, followed by crimpers and pockets leading to the anchors.


Location 

Starts to the left of Don't Mean Nothin' on top of a large pedastal. You can and should belay from the pedastal, but be sure to stick clip the first bolt (which doesn't require a stick clip).


Protection 

Bolts



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By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice technical slab route. Standing and racking up on top of the crumbly pedestal can be iffy. We used two cams and set up anchors for the belayer in the wide crack left of the route. Alternatively, the belayer could clip with a long sling into the first bolt.

By AntVicino
Oct 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I found it easiest to have the belayer on the ground below the crumbling pedestal.