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BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a.
Small nuts and cams up to #1 Camalot. Small cams for the business. A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping.
August 10, 2002.
Laurent is about to enter the fun part.
Marga Powell laybacking the first hard moves on De...
Marga Powell at the crux. Small cams provide good...
DC finding the right piece to head into the roof/c...
The early stages of Dementia.
If you can stem to this left foot hold, it's almos...
Michael with an interesting solution to the crux.
Angus McLean bridging the crux of Dementia.
Ross, finding the crux.
Kevin in the good part.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Jun 28, 2001
Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 13, 2001
That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's!
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001
A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.
|By Anthony Everhart|
Feb 4, 2003
It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon.
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Sep 25, 2003
This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2003
One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated.
Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall.
|By jeff sallen|
From: San Diego
Nov 11, 2003
I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Nov 12, 2003
Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win.
|By Tevis Blom|
Aug 21, 2004
I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter.
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 1, 2004
Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 18, 2006
Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken.
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 15, 2006
This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section.
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 16, 2007
You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!)
From the route description:
"...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping."
I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2007
One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Apr 21, 2009
This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux.
|By Cindy Mitchell|
Oct 11, 2010
At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me.
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 21, 2010
Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 14, 2011
A great line but a proper grunt.
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2012
My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks!
May 28, 2012
I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend.
Sep 29, 2012
^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!!
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 15, 2013
I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis.
May 14, 2013
I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux.
If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful!