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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Routes Sorted
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Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Delusions of Grandeur 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Monz and Mike Sawicky
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 18, 2012

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Description 

This route is a bit contrived; it's hard not to use the obvious Twin Oaks crack to your left.

P1 5.9+ Climb up the face below the overhang, clear it (crux) and continue up face to a bigledge (50 ft.). There is a rappel station to the left, which falls over Hyjek's Horror.

P2 5.5 Climb the left-facing corner above P1 to large ledge and step left to a small, short left facing corner (same as for Triple Bulges) Climb a bit left of the corner, pretty much straight up (staying left of Triple Bulges) to a bulge below a flaky, right-facing corner. Climb the bulge (crux) and up to a corner to GT ledge and belay tree/rap station (140ft).

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack

Location 

Find the big crack of Twin Oaks, just past the Fingerlocks crack. Start immediately right of Twin Oaks.


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