Coming out of the cave just right of Buffalo Chips is a very steep line that begins on huge lay-away jugs; this is Delusions, and is aptly named (at least for some of us). Continuous and powerful flake climbing for three bolts leads out of the cave and into gonad-land. This climb is a bit weird in the sense that the pro is so reasonable where the climbing is powerful, but gets really sparse where the climbing gets technical. It is possible to pre-clip a long sling from the bolt above the cave, and this seems very desirable since the run-out comes close on the heels of very pumpy climbing. Pull out of the cave onto a short very technical grey face with reachy moves on good stone. Subsequently, a good horizontal stance can be negotiated via a sizeable pocket. This is followed by more thin edge climbing on near perfect rock. This route might deserve three stars, as consensus demands. The rock coming out of the cave is a bit dubious, but it has held up over the years and may only look as though it will break away. Otherwise, expect excellent climbing, powerful, and pretty scary in the middle - if it is done without pre-placing the draw.
Eight draws some gonads, and a rope.
|By Dave Pilot|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Richard's description is right on. My son was lured onto this one due to the early promises of overhanging thuggery. After the third bolt, he was shut down as the climbing got harder and thinner before it transitioned onto the slab. I had to finish the climb to retrieve my draws and found it to be a bit runout and fairly thin and technical in spots above the "crux". Still, it's a worthy endeavor.