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East Face
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Deltoid Force 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gary Olsen, 1986
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007
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Description 

The route starts with a V2/V3 overhanging boulder problem past a bolt next to a fixed pin, and then climbs 5.9 face near the edge of a buttress (great position) to the stance. The belay is a rusted quarter-inch bolt with an old-style SMC hanger, fixed blade, and fixed nut, all tied together with slings. Someone with energy should remove the first fixed pin (the bolt next to it is bomber) and replace the stance with bolts and chains (may want to consider moving the stance to the top of the buttress). It is possible to avoid the boulder problem by starting higher in the gully to the right of the line and traversing left; this likely would make a two-star 5.9.


Location 

Left of the Challenge Buttress proper, left of Touch of Teflon. Climb a ramp system on the left up to the upper tier. Route begins on a ledge.


Protection 

In addition to draws, small to mid-size cams and a small assortment of nuts. Rap from stance.



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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 11, 2013

I would say the rating is one of the most gratuitous sandbags around, even at V2/3 for the boulder problem.