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Delt Melt 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JBaker, CSnyder, JShiefman, Oct. 1999
Page Views: 1,110
Submitted By: jbak on Jun 27, 2006
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The start is strenuous...

Description 

Climbs the dihedral left of the Cres-sent roof. Tough crux off the deck and a slab crux up high. Stick-clipping is cheating IMO. The FA was a 50th birthday present to myself.


Location 

left of Cres-sent


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Delt Melt Slideshow Add Photo
JB...looking for a rest....early Delt Melt attempt, Oct 1999.
JB...looking for a rest....early Delt Melt attempt...
JB on Delt Melt back in 1999.
JB on Delt Melt back in 1999.
Comments on Delt Melt Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 18, 2006

Super hard bouldery crux just off the deck. I stick clipped the 2nd bolt when I tried it. I barely got to the clipping hold and was glad I stick clipped it. After that it eases up.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 21, 2008

On this agian yesterday for the second time in two weeks and that first move is still stupid hard. Took me a dozen tries and a tantrum to get a sequence I hope will work. Not like a lot of 12s where once you get the move dialed it is just a matter of not pumping out. The single move is so hard for me that it is probably less than 50/50 I will stick it.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 28, 2008

Clipped them all from the ground Jbak just so you wouldn't DQ my send. Isn't that bad when you have worked it as many times as I did. It is safer to clip the third bolt when you get higher in the dihedral rather than at your first opportunity. You will not hit the ground with an attentive belayer but if you popped off as you were trying to clip from lower you would come close.

By jbak
Aug 28, 2008

Whew...my faith restored...good job !

By jbak
Jun 3, 2012

Ryan... you sent after we left ? Nice !

By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Thanks jbak, it was certainly desperate and not pretty but I managed to pull it off.