This newer addition to the Roof Area has cleaned up nicely and offers continuous movement without any stopper moves making it a good choice for those breaking into the grade or running laps.
Climb a short flared corner to a ledge and then over a bulge on mostly good holds to another ledge. Stem and lieback your way up a flared corner to a crux sequence pulling another bulge. Once past the crux vertical face on large holds gains the anchors.
Right of center in the Roof Area midway between Balrog on the left and Epiphany on the right.
11 bolts, ring anchors
|By Tyler Quesnel|
Aug 3, 2011
Pretty fun, sustained and straight forward climbing. Crux is just a pump test so save your energy. Last bolt before the anchors I skipped, but there's probably a good clipping stance somewhere there.
From: Riverside, Ca
Dec 27, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
A pretty important right hand gaston(after a left hand crimp), which is also my favorite move in the entire climb, has broken off. I believe its after the 3rd or 4th bolt?
|By Ian McG|
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Yea, it was at the first bulge, at bolt 4? Now that this hold is missing, the move has become pretty height dependent. At 6'1", it doesn't seem to be much harder, but for shorter folks, this move probably bumps it up a grade.
|By Phil Esra|
Apr 22, 2013
Is the arete on route? If so, the missing hold isn't important at 5'6". (I found the upper bulge much harder, mostly due to pump.)