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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbit In A Blender S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistible S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Jason Mullins 1992
Page Views: 2,072
Submitted By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Aleix Serrat Capdevila AKA Tex glides across the t...


Another of the must do 12-'s on the mountain which will test your endurance. Starts straight up for a couple of bolts then traverses slightly right and up a ways to the rest ledge. Continue past the ledge to some tricky lower angle climbing to the anchors.


In the alcove 1st complete bolt line to the left. There is an open project left of this that was only partially bolted in the past.


Bolts, Chains

Photos of Delirious Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Smell that wonderful glue smell!
Smell that wonderful glue smell!

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 25, 2016
By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 24, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Could not agree more. It does not get more classic than this. If you can ignore the copious amounts of epoxy on the climb it is hard to rival the movement on this climb. Sticking to the left side of Middle Earth is a great way to get strong.
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sweet, sustained route. 13 bolts, I believe. I think it's closer to 80' than 60', though.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

There is now a new route left of Delirious. Bolted by Jason Mullins it was redpointed by Kevin early this year. 2008
By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Added biners for lowering off the chains at the top - 6.09
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Contoocook, NH
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Most of this route would fall off if it wasn't glued on. Fun moves, okay, but not classic by any stretch of the imagination.
By JoeS
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I guess I'm not so bothered by the gluing as some. I'm glad the holds were glued and didn't fall off. It made for a fun climb.
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

does anyone have any information about the route to the left of delirious?

ie) grade and name?

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Matt it is 13 and Kevin O'Donnell who used to work at the gym put it up. Bottom is funky involving a stick clip of the second bolt as you climb so far left. I can't remember. Vince Bates probably remembers or someone should have Kevin's # they can pm you with it.
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 8, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

thanks eric!

i appreciate the info.
By WAGbag
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2012

2 bolts up then traverse directly right until you are well right of the angling bolt line. Four stars through the first five bolts but you way want to bring a walkie-talkie so you can here your belayer over the top of the powerful sucking sound you'll hear as stars are sucked out of the climb with each move above, wandering way right, way left with no discernable flow or natural line.
By iancevans
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

You may have been off route WAGbag...? It pretty much goes straight up after the second or third bolt... there are a couple of other lines that branch off right (Simply Irresistable, and Irresistable) with some bolts close together that could lead to confusion. I don't know if I can give it the full four stars, but 1 star is pretty stingy -- as good as almost any 12a on Lemmon. So it seems to me, anyway.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Just did it two weeks ago. 5 or 6 ft. traverse to the right then straight up to the ledge. From the ledge you can move left and go over the bolts, hard. Or stay right of bolts for two or three bolts then move back left.
By Kemper Brightman
Mar 25, 2016

A perfect test piece with a wide variety of angles and movement, requiring both finesse and fitness to reach the chains.

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