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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous
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An Inconvenient Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Build The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Burn The Wall (LINK UP) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Camel Kisser (LINK UP) S |
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Camel Straight (LINK UP) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Choss Is A Ladder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cig-arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Climate Changed S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Commitment Issues S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack Horror S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Destination Dirtpipe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6 7A |
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Dick Pics S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dual Threat Duel S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Feats of Strength S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendzoned S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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K-2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Luscious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Malibu's Most Wanted (DO NOT CLIMB: CROW NEST ON ROUTE) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orange Mocha Frappuccino S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Phoenix, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V4 6B |
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Poison Stoke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seven Year bItch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Simon Says S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanna Get High S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Weakened Warrior S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Year of the Karen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant and John Long, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 8,763 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Levy on Jan 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park.
Details
Description
One of the best in the park, this route has become very popular. It begins on the right end of the wall and begins on whitish/tan rock heading up & left up to a large bathtub sized hueco. From there you go up & out the right side, & power through a steep bulge where you'll find the crux(5.10+)getting to the 7th bolt. The upper 40 feet of this route are on amazing rock and it's only 5.9+. 10 bolts to sport anchors. Long runners/long draws recommended for bolt #'s 3, 5, 8 & 10. The pocketed nature of the rock made some bolt placements away from the ideal location.
Location
When you arrive at Mt Gorgeous from the trail, you are on a higher platform of blocks. You need to descend to the lower area to the South. A tree leans against the rock to make this easier. The route starts on the far right side before the hill rises into a jungle. The left line of bolts is Family Jewels. There is a nice tree & a few places to sit here. Do not be confused by a new route with funky bolts that stick out an alarming amount, which moves off right, after the 4th bolt and goes to separate anchors(chains?) Delicious climbs pretty much straight up the steep, pocketed wall & overhangs slightly. Look for the red brown pockets up high, festooned with chalk.
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