||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant and John Long, 2001|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Year round w/ am shade & pm sun|
|Page Views: ||3,244|
|Submitted By: ||Levy on Jan 30, 2008|
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At the crux of delicious
One of the best in the park, this route has become very popular. It begins on the right end of the wall and begins on whitish/tan rock heading up & left up to a large bathtub sized hueco. From there you go up & out the right side, & power through a steep bulge where you'll find the crux(5.10+)getting to the 7th bolt. The upper 40 feet of this route are on amazing rock and it's only 5.9+. 10 bolts to sport anchors. Long runners/long draws recommended for bolt #'s 3, 5, 8 & 10. The pocketed nature of the rock made some bolt placements away from the ideal location.
When you arrive at Mt Gorgeous from the trail, you are on a higher platform of blocks. You need to descend to the lower area to the South. A tree leans against the rock to make this easier. The route starts on the far right side before the hill rises into a jungle. The left line of bolts is Family Jewels. There is a nice tree & a few places to sit here. Do not be confused by a new route with funky bolts that stick out an alarming amount, which moves off right, after the 4th bolt and goes to separate anchors(chains?) Delicious climbs pretty much straight up the steep, pocketed wall & overhangs slightly. Look for the red brown pockets up high, festooned with chalk.
10 bolts, plus 2 for the top anchors. The anchors on this popular route are starting to show some signs of wear.
By John Long
Aug 29, 2010
Bill, Matt, Dave Katz, Joe Kristy and I all worked cleaning this up over several weekends and as I remember, Bill was the first to lead it. Questionably the best moderate route in the park.
By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Sep 24, 2010
Although I haven't done it clean yet, this is in my opinion the most enjoyable moderate at malibu.
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 14, 2013
There are nice new Fixe hangers and fixed 'biners on the route as of a few months ago. Please do not top-rope off of the lower-out anchors.
Thanks Bill, Matt and KD for the much-needed replacements!